- Parts cost: The switch itself typically costs anywhere from $14-$52.
- Labor cost: Professional labor will vary, but generally costs around $39-$107.
These replacement costs will vary somewhat depending on your vehicle and where you get the work done. Use a repair estimator like the one in the Jerry app to get a precise estimate.
Real customers Jerry has helped
Costs for replacing your brake light switch depend on your exact vehicle, where you live and the quality of parts used. With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need to replace a brake light switch.
What influences the replacement cost?
While replacing a brake light switch is not a major expense, the final price can be influenced by a few factors:
- Vehicle year, make and model: The car you drive determines the part’s complexity and its accessibility. A multi-function switch for a modern luxury vehicle costs more than a simple one, and a switch that’s hard to reach behind dash panels increases labor time. This can easily change the final price by $50 – $150 or more.
- Independent shop vs. franchised dealer: A franchised dealer typically has higher hourly labor rates and uses more expensive Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts. Choosing an independent shop, which often provides more affordable aftermarket part options, can save you $50 – $100 for the exact same repair.
- Geographic location: Labor rates are significantly higher in major metropolitan areas due to a higher cost of doing business. You can expect to pay more for labor in a large city than in a smaller town, which can account for a $30 – $50 difference in the final labor charge.
What is a brake light switch and why is it important?
Calling it just a brake light switch doesn’t begin to define the crucial signals this device supplies to the systems of a modern car. It is a key component tied into multiple vehicle networks, with functions including:
- Controlling the brake lights: Its primary job is turning the brake lights on and off with brake application.
- Safety system communication: It sends vital signals to the anti-lock brake (ABS) and stability control systems.
- Gear selector interlock: It provides the signal that the brake is applied, which allows the gear selector to be moved out of Park.
Brake over throttle system: In many vehicles, the signal from the brake switch is sent to the engine control unit. This is used to compare if the brakes are applied while the throttle is open, allowing the system to lower the engine RPM and prevent a vehicle runaway.
Symptoms of a faulty brake light switch
With so many systems affected by a faulty brake light switch, the symptoms are usually clear and don’t require a major diagnostic approach outside of the quick tests you can run in the Jerry app. Typically, the internal contacts in the switch fail, preventing current from flowing when the brake is applied.
Look for these signs of failure:
- Brake lights that do not illuminate when you press the pedal or are stuck on permanently.
- You cannot shift your vehicle out of the Park position.
- Warning lights for the ABS or Traction/Stability Control systems appear on your dashboard.
- Your vehicle’s cruise control will not engage.
Your action plan: How to get it done right
Given the safety-critical nature of this part, here is your plan for a successful repair:
Confirm the symptoms:
Verify that your issue (e.g., no brake lights, can’t shift from Park) matches the signs of a failing switch.
Assess the job:
Locate the switch on your vehicle’s brake pedal arm. Based on its accessibility, decide if this is a DIY job that you are comfortable and skilled enough to perform.
Consider the adjustment:
Improper adjustment can cause serious issues. If you are not confident in setting the switch perfectly, a professional repair is the safer choice.
If you’re going the professional route, use the Jerry app to get accurate quotes from trusted local shops to ensure you’re getting a fair price.
DIY vs. Pro
If you plan on trying to replace the switch yourself, you need to first find its location. Here are the factors to take into account:
| Factor | DIY | Professional mechanic |
| Cost | $14 – $52 (Part only) | $125 – $220 (Parts & Labor) |
| Time | 1.5 hours + | About 1 hour |
| Skill level | Intermediate. This is for someone comfortable working in tight, awkward spaces. | Professional |
| Challenge | High. The switch is almost always tucked away in a tight spot under the dash. It may require removing a dash underpanel to access. | Standard procedure |
Our recommendation: Due to the challenging location and the critical need for proper adjustment, this job is often best left to a professional unless you are an experienced DIYer. Fortunately, finding the right local mechanic for the job is easy via the Jerry app.
Key considerations: Switch adjustment & vintage cars
There are two other important details to be aware of with this repair.
1. Critical switch adjustment: If your vehicle uses a plunger-type switch, it must be adjusted properly upon installation.
- Adjusted too far forward: The brakes may not release completely, causing drag and overheating.
- Adjusted too far back: The brake lights and other components may become energized intermittently or all the time. On cars that allow brake lights to be energized with the ignition off, this will result in a dead battery.
- The proper spec: There should be about one-eighth of an inch of clearance between the switch’s plastic body and the face on the brake pedal arm that presses on the plunger.
2. Vintage vehicles (late ‘50s-early ‘60s): On many older cars, a pressure switch was used instead of a plunger-type switch. This switch looks like a little silver cylinder screwed into the brake master cylinder on the driver’s side firewall. Since there were no high-tech electronics on these cars, this switch only had to control the brake lights.
What our customers are asking
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When should I replace my brake fluid?
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What kind of brake pads should I fit my car with?
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No. The primary function of anti-lock brakes is to allow control of the vehicle under hard braking or low traction conditions. Those of us who learned to drive on cars with no anti-lock learned to “modulate” the braking whenever we felt a lockup coming on. But with anti-lock, just mash the brake pedal and steer. The anti-lock system will do a better job of modulating the brakes than a human driver.
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
