The spread comes down to whether your car uses a simple bolt-in sensor or an integrated hub/bearing assembly, local labor rates, and how stubbornly the old parts are stuck.
Parts Cost: $40 (simple sensor) to $500+ (integrated hub assembly)
Labor Cost: $150 to $400+, depending on complexity, rust/corrosion, and shop rate
To get accurate quotes for your car and location, use a repair estimator like the one in the Jerry app.
Real customers Jerry helped
While pricing can vary based on location, parts used and exact vehicle, Jerry uses real customer experiences to show what drivers are paying right now. Here are some examples of customers Jerry has helped:
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
The repair explained: what is a wheel speed sensor?
A wheel speed sensor is a small transducer that reports each wheel’s spin rate to the car’s safety computers. This data runs ABS (anti-lock braking), traction control, and stability control. If a wheel locks in a panic stop or spins on a slick road, the computer uses the sensor’s signal to intervene so the driver keeps steering control.
Since 2013, all new cars have ABS, and most modern vehicles layer on driver-assist tech that demands active sensors.
Symptoms of a failing wheel speed sensor
A failed sensor can disable multiple safety systems at once, often lighting several dash icons together. Jerry customers are seeing these common symptoms:
- ABS, traction control, or stability control lights on.
- ABS or traction system kicking in unexpectedly at low speeds.
- Erratic speedometer on vehicles that use a wheel sensor for speed.
- Harsh or erratic transmission shifts on some platforms.
Quick sanity check: if you have a basic scan tool, graph all four wheel speeds at 5–10 mph in a straight line. The bad wheel typically reads zero, jitters, or drops out compared to the others. If all four look clean but the light is still on, suspect wiring/connector issues rather than the hub/tone ring.
If your dash is lit up and you’re not sure where to start, download the Jerry app—our AI diagnostic can help interpret symptoms and point you toward next steps.
Cost breakdown: why the price varies so much
Your vehicle’s design drives the final bill. Here’s what Jerry customers are finding moves the needle (and how to read the clues like a pro):
Sensor type (bolt-in vs. integrated hub) — the biggest factor.
Bolt-in sensor: A standalone part that bolts into the knuckle and is usually cheaper and faster to repair.
Integrated hub assembly: The sensor is molded into the wheel hub/bearing. The tech replaces the whole unit, so both parts and labor rise. Many quality hubs are $250–$500 for the part alone.
Part type (active vs. passive):
Active sensors cost a bit more but support today’s driver-assist features.
Other potential parts:
The sensor might be fine. A cracked/corroded tone ring or a chafed wiring harness could be the real culprit.
Diagnostic time & labor rates:
Expect ~0.5 hr for scan/diagnosis (more if corrosion or intermittent faults exist). In high-rate metros and on rust-belt cars, totals trend higher.
Want a number tailored to your VIN and ZIP? Use Jerry to see what drivers with your exact trim paid and to compare part brands and warranties.
Your action plan: how to get it done right
Identify your sensor type:
Confirm bolt-in vs. hub-integrated by VIN or parts lookup.
Decide DIY or pro:
Balance comfort level against corrosion risk and tool needs. Hub jobs and seized sensors escalate quickly; incorrect axle-nut torque can shorten bearing life and trigger new ABS faults.
Get competing quotes:
If you’re going pro, compare parts brand, warranty length, and that the shop will:
Read live wheel-speed data before quoting.
Inspect harness routing at the strut/knuckle.
Check tone ring/encoder and bearing play.
Road-test and verify live data after the repair.
Use Jerry to see real prices near you and book with vetted shops.
DIY vs. pro: what to expect
Whether this is a DIY job depends on sensor type, climate (rust vs. sun-belt) and comfort level. Jerry can help you make a more informed decision with accurate parts and labor rates.
| Factor | DIY (Bolt-in Sensor) | Professional Service |
| Cost | $33 – $201 (part only) | $150 – $600+ |
| Time | 1–2 hours | 1–2 hours |
| Skill Level | Beginner–intermediate. Requires lifting the car safely | Professional |
| Risk | Low for bolt-in sensors; high for integrated hubs. | Low |
When to DIY:
If the car has a stand-alone, bolt-in sensor with easy access and minimal corrosion, this is a great way to save $150+ in labor.
- Safely lift the car.
- Remove the wheel.
- Unplug/unscrew the old sensor.
- Clean the mounting boss flat (rust can change the sensor “air gap”).
- Route the harness along the original clips.
- Plug in the new unit.
- Avoid magnets or wire brushes on encoder faces; wipe with a clean lint-free cloth.
When to go to a pro:
- The sensor is integrated into the hub bearing (repair requires pullers/presses and exact axle-nut torque; many nuts are single-use).
- The old sensor is seized with rust—extraction often needs heat and specialty tools; prying on the tip can snap it off in the knuckle.
- Apprehension about safely lifting/supporting the vehicle on jack stands.
- Bearing play (rock the wheel at 12/6 with brakes off) is suspected. A bad bearing can mimic sensor failure.
Quality control and warranty matter; a good shop will road-test, verify live data, and stand behind the repair. (No alignment is typically required for a hub swap unless strut/knuckle bolts are loosened.)
Use Jerry to request two itemized quotes when you’re unsure—one for a sensor, one for a hub—so you’re not over-buying parts.
Related Repairs
What our customers are asking
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Can I drive with a bad wheel-speed sensor?
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Will a bad sensor affect my inspection?
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Do all four sensors fail at once?
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What about used sensors?
Beginning with Hot Wheels toys as a preschooler, Rocco’s lifelong passion for cars has taken him from high school occupational courses to decades of master mechanic experience in mobile, dealership and independent auto shops.
Rocco’s professional career began in 1997 with factory Ford training in San Diego. While gaining invaluable experience in dealerships and independent shops, he went forward to complete Toyota factory training and graduated from the Universal Technical Institute near Chicago in 2009.
In 2014, Rocco opened Rocco’s Mobile Auto Repair in California servicing Los Angeles, Orange and San Diego Counties with both individual and fleet-based services. After years of success, Rocco shifted his work model from running a business to managing an independent automotive shop. Now in Tennessee, he focuses on training new technicians to be their best.
Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.
