Typical four-cylinder jobs near $149–$156 and V6/V8 or hard-to-reach engines are $350–$600, while outliers can run higher (e.g., HEMI V8s with 16 plugs; Ford 5.4L 3V if extractions are needed).
- Parts: $5–$150 total (usually $5–$25 per for 4–8 plugs—or 16 on some HEMI V8s depending on engine and plug type).
- Labor: $49–$283 (about 0.5–3.0 hours depending on access and engine layout).
If your engine design requires removing the intake manifold or extra components, labor charges can raise the cost to replace spark plugs. It is important to use spark plugs made of an OEM material—platinum, iridium or copper.
Real customers Jerry has helped
Costs for getting your spark plug repaired depend on your exact vehicle, where you live and the quality of oil used. With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need their spark plugs repaired.
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
Spark plug jobs look simple on paper, but service costs swing with engine design, parts selection and shop labor rates. Here’s how each factor typically affects your total:
Engine cylinder count and layout (spark plug part cost by engine):
4-cylinder: Often $100–$200
V6: Often $150–$350
V8: Often $200–$450 (confirm plug count on your quote)
Transverse V6 engines and some turbo setups can be tight on space, adding 0.5–1.5 hours of labor. Use the Jerry app to to find a mechanic with experience on your exact engine layout.
Access and complexity:
If technicians must remove an intake manifold, engine cover, cowl or other hardware to reach rear-bank plugs, expect an extra $50–$200 in labor.
Older Ford 5.4L 3-valve (risk of broken two-piece plugs), many transverse V6 minivans/sedans (rear bank under intake) and some BMW/Audi turbo sixes (tight packaging, heat-cycled plugs) fall into the high complexity category.
Plug type and quality:
Copper/nickel: $5–$10 per plug; shorter life (often 20k–30k miles).
Platinum: $10–$15 per plug; medium life (60k+).
Iridium: $12–$25 per plug; long life (80k–120k+).
For an 8-cylinder engine, plug choice alone can swing your parts bill by $80–$160 (affecting the average cost of spark plugs).
Ignition coil boots and wires:
If wires/boots are brittle or oil-soaked, replacing them can add $25–$100 in parts and a small amount of labor. Coil-on-plug systems may add cost if an individual coil is failing ($60–$200 per), but coils aren’t automatically required.
Shop labor rate:
Hourly rates vary by region and shop type (independent vs. dealership), typically $90–$180/hr. Compare quoted hours to book time (Mitchell/ALLDATA).
Additional gaskets or incidentals:
If the intake manifold comes off, a new gasket set may add $20–$60. Dielectric grease on boots is standard; anti-seize is generally not recommended on modern plated threads unless the plug maker specifies it.
Regional taxes and fees:
Expect 5–10% variability in many areas due to taxes, shop supplies and disposal fees.
What is a spark plug?
A spark plug is a small, threaded ignition device that screws into each cylinder head. During engine operation, it receives high voltage from the ignition system and jumps a spark across its tip. That spark ignites the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber, creating the power that drives your car. Modern plugs use durable center and ground electrodes—often platinum or iridium—to resist wear and maintain a consistent spark gap over tens of thousands of miles. Correct heat range, gap and torque are critical for proper ignition and longevity.
What are signs that I need my spark plugs replaced?
Spark plugs wear gradually. As the electrodes erode and deposits build up, the spark becomes weaker and less consistent. Run a diagnostic in the Jerry app if you notice any of these issues:
- Hard starts or extended cranking, especially when the engine is cold
- Rough idle, stumbling or hesitation under acceleration
- Misfire codes (e.g., P0300–P0308) or a flashing Check Engine light
- Reduced fuel economy or sluggish performance
- Noticeable vibration at idle, particularly in 4-cylinder engines
- Long service interval exceeded (e.g., 60k–120k miles depending on plug type, or 8–10 years by time)
Pro tip: If you see a P030X, swap the coil from cylinder X to another cylinder and clear the fault code—if the misfire fault returns and follows the swapped coil, the coil is suspect. Also check for oil in plug wells (valve cover leaks) and consider a vacuum leak/smoke test for idle-only misfires.
Your action plan: How to save money
Mechanics often say spark plug jobs are “simple until they aren’t.” Use these insider tips from Jerry to keep control of costs:
Confirm the correct plug spec before you buy:
Stick with the plug design and heat range listed by the manufacturer (often NGK/Denso for Asian makes; Bosch/NGK for European; Motorcraft/ACDelco for domestic). Iridium is usually worth it for longer intervals.
Ask what’s involved on your specific engine:
A shop familiar with your make/model can quote more accurately—especially if intake or cowl removal is required. Request a line-item estimate for parts, labor hours and shop fees.
Replace all plugs at once:
Mixing old and new plugs invites uneven performance and repeat labor later. The incremental parts cost is small compared to doing labor twice.
Inspect related items while you’re in there:
Coil boots, wires, and valve cover gaskets (if oil is in the wells) are cheaper to address now. Don’t approve coil “bundles” unless they test weak or show cracks/oil.
Time it with other maintenance:
If your intake must come off, combine with other services (like PCV valve or manifold gaskets) to save on duplicated labor.
Get apples-to-apples quotes:
Ensure each quote lists plug brand/part number, exact plug count and any required gaskets. Be cautious about injector flushes or throttle body cleaning without symptoms or data.
Download the Jerry app to compare firm, shop-ready quotes from nearby mechanics in minutes and find a reputable shop that fits your schedule and budget.
Related repairs
Spark plug work often overlaps with other ignition and top-end services. If your vehicle shows any of the following, address them alongside your plug replacement to avoid duplicate labor:
- Ignition coils or wires
- Valve cover gaskets
- Air filter and throttle body cleaning
- Fuel system cleaning
- PCV valve replacement
- Intake manifold gaskets
DIY vs. Pro: Can I do this myself?
Spark plugs are a classic DIY job—provided you can reach them and have a torque wrench. On some engines, access is great. On others, you may be working blind near the bulkhead. Here’s a quick comparison to help you decide:
Many iridium/platinum plugs are pre-gapped—don’t force-adjust a fine-wire electrode. Use a small dab of dielectric grease on boots; avoid anti-seize unless the plug manufacturer specifically recommends it, as it alters torque values.
Over the years, I learned a little trick to get them out. I have a ⅜” pneumatic impact driver in my arsenal that I use to remove these spark plugs. The hammering action of the impact driver breaks free some of the rust and corrosion that builds up on the base due to their design and they usually spin right out.
That said, a spark plug may still break even with the best techniques. Needing a special tool to extract the base of the plug is an extra step that can turn a simple spark plug change into a time-consuming ordeal.
What our customers are asking us
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How often should spark plugs be replaced?
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Should I replace all plugs at once?
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Will new plugs improve fuel economy and power?
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Do I need to replace ignition coils with the plugs?
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What’s the correct torque?
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Why is my quote so high on a V6/V8?
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What if I still see a misfire after replacing plugs?
Jerel Lawrence is an experienced and certified automotive technician with a strong foundation in diagnostics, repair and technical mentorship. A graduate of NASCAR Technical Institute in 2010, Jerel began his career at national automotive repair chain locations, where he earned eight certifications from the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE).
From 2017 to 2022, he worked as a General Motors-certified technician at a Cadillac dealership, refining his skills in manufacturer-specific diagnostics and service procedures. Today, Jerel leads as the senior technician and mentor at a family-owned repair facility, where he helps guide the next generation of technicians while ensuring top-quality service.
In addition to hands-on work, Jerel contributes to the automotive community through writing detailed articles and answering technical questions to help vehicle owners better understand and care for their cars.
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
