Common Problems with Hyundais (and what to do about them)

Written by Jerry Editorial Staff and 2 others
Updated Dec 2, 2025

Hyundais are usually good daily drivers with a solid warranty base, but that doesn’t shield them from a few well-known problem patterns.

Hyundai make

After helping 1,300,000 drivers across the U.S. manage repairs and maintenance, we’ve learned that the top Hyundai issues are engine bearing knock, excessive oil consumption, 7‑speed Dual‑Clutch Transmission (DCT) shudder, Anti-Lock Braking System module short/battery drain and hard-starts caused by evaporative emissions (EVAP) purge valve faults.

Hyundai addressed many engine knock concerns under extended coverage, so check before paying out of pocket. Track oil consumption and keep maintenance records, as Hyundai sometimes offers help when service history is well-documented.

If you want current shop-quote and repair-price data matched to your car’s year, mileage, ZIP code and shop type, just download the Jerry app. 

Real customers Jerry has helped

With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now to fix common problems with their Hyundais. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need to take their Hyundai to a pro.

Last Updated Dec. 3, 2025

Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.

Model & trim cheat sheet (scannable)

Sonata/Santa Fe Sport/Tucson 2.4/2.0T GDI 
Common issue
Engine bearing knock/metal debris (Theta II)
Severity
High
Typical repair range
$3,500–$7,500 (engine/short block out of warranty)
Tucson 1.6T 7‑speed DCT 
Common issue
DCT judder/hesitation from stop
Severity
Medium
Typical repair range
$200–$1,400 (TCM)/clutch pack)
Elantra/Veloster 7‑speed DCT
Common issue
Harsh engage, creep loss, Transmission Control Module (TCM) calibration
Severity
Medium
Typical repair range
$180–$650 (software/adaptation/actuator)
Multiple models 
Common issue
Hydraulic brake unit internal short/battery drain/engine room fire
Severity
High
Typical repair range
$700–$1,300 (updated module + fused lead)
Many Hyundai GDI engines 
Common issue
Excessive oil consumption
Severity
Medium
Typical repair range
$150–$450 (PCV/diagnosis); $1,500–$4,500 (rings)
Elantra/Sonata/Tucson 
Common issue
EVAP purge valve stuck open (hard start after refuel)
Severity
Low
Typical repair range
$150–$300 (purge valve)
Elantra/Sonata/Veloster 
Common issue
Motor Driven Power Steering (MDPS) coupler clunk/click
Severity
Low
Typical repair range
$120–$300 (coupler)
Sonata/Santa Fe 
Common issue
A/C compressor failure/no cold air
Severity
Medium
Typical repair range
$900–$1,600 (compressor/drier)

Use the Jerry app to compare line-item quotes locally before you commit.

Symptoms, likely causes, typical fixes and typical costs

Engine develops a rhythmic knocking that rises with RPM
Likely cause
Bearing wear/metal debris in Theta II GDI
Typical fix
Replace short block/engine assembly
Typical cost (parts+labor)
$3,500–$7,500
Car shudders and hesitates from a stop with a DCT
Likely cause
DCT clutch wear or adaptation out of spec
Typical fix
TCM update/adaptation; replace clutch pack
Typical cost (parts+labor)
$200–$1,400
ABS and brake lights come on and battery drains when parked
Likely cause
ABS HECU internal short
Typical fix
Replace ABS module; add fused battery lead
Typical cost (parts+labor)
$700–$1,200
Long crank or rough start immediately after refueling
Likely cause
EVAP purge valve stuck open
Typical fix
Replace purge valve; inspect charcoal canister
Typical cost (parts+labor)
$150–$450
Steering wheel clicks or feels loose on-center at low speed
Likely cause
Worn MDPS rubber coupler
Typical fix
Replace steering coupler
Typical cost (parts+labor)
$120–$300

Pro tip: If you’re shopping, Jerry customers have learned that documented diagnosis or quotes for these items can be fair negotiation leverage.

Quick checks for the top issues above (no special tools)

Engine develops a rhythmic knocking that rises with RPM:
With engine cold, start and listen near wheel wells. A deep, steady knock that increases with revs is a red flag—shut it down.

Car shudders and hesitates from a stop with a DCT:
On a flat surface, gentle launch; feel for repeated shudder or delayed engagement without wheel spin.

ABS and brake lights come on and battery drains when parked:
Note warning lights, warm ABS module area after sitting or a weak battery after overnight parking.

Long crank or rough start immediately after refueling:
After a fuel stop, if cranking is long or stumbles, try starting with the pedal slightly pressed—then suspect the purge valve.

Steering wheel clicks or feels loose on-center at low speed:
In a parking lot, turn the wheel slowly left/right; feel for a soft click or notchiness around center.

Maintenance that reduces risk for these issues

Change oil and filter every 5,000–6,000 miles on GDI/turbo engines; use the correct spec and replace the PCV valve around 60,000 miles to help curb consumption and deposits.

Refresh coolant every 5 years/100,000 miles to maintain proper chemistry and protect the water pump.

Install spark plugs every 60,000–90,000 miles (turbo toward the low end); a smooth idle reduces DCT lugging.

Flush brake fluid every three years to keep ABS valving healthy and keep corrosion down.

Don’t top off the tank after the first click; it protects the EVAP system.

If your car’s maintenance history is unknown, baseline at 60k/90k checkpoints and bundle labor where possible (e.g., plugs with coil inspection, A/C service with belt inspection). You can set these benchmarks by keeping your maintenance records current in the Jerry app.

When to stop driving to avoid bigger bills

If you’re unsure whether it’s safe, pull over and call a mechanic or tow. New warning lights, severe new noises or smells, or fluids pouring out are all ‘stop now’ signals. Here are common situations where stopping immediately is the right move:

Temperature warning or clear signs of overheating.

Flashing Check Engine Light with power loss or heavy misfire.

Brake warning lights or a suddenly soft/long pedal.

Sudden rhythmic knocking even with the oil light off–stop immediately.

If you’re using the Jerry app, you can run a quick triage in Diagnose before you tow, then compare price ranges at a local shop for the likely repair.

JEREL'S CORNER
A loud steering clunk is typical of many Hyundai vehicles with electronic MDPS. This customer's symptoms were most present during parking lot maneuvers and sounded a little less clunky going down the road.

When I disassembled the column and removed the motor, there it was—the rubberized steering coupler insert, which absorbs the harsh movements of the powerful electronic motor, had disintegrated.

The fix included a $10 part and about 2 hours of labor. The total bill was just under $250 and the customer was relieved the problem wasn’t something like the steering rack or loose suspension part. Don’t panic when you hear a clicking or clunking noise behind the steering wheel of your Hyundai—it may just be a simple coupler replacement.
Jerel Lawrence
Jerel Lawrence
ASE-Certified Mechanic and Contributing Author

What our customers are asking

  • My oil level drops between changes—should I use a thicker oil?
  • Will an EVAP code make me fail emissions?
  • Am I overpaying for a Sonata engine replacement?
  • Do I need OEM Hyundai parts or can I use aftermarket?
  • Can software updates really fix DCT shudder?
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Our experts
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Jerel Lawrence

Jerel Lawrence is an experienced and certified automotive technician with a strong foundation in diagnostics, repair and technical mentorship. A graduate of NASCAR Technical Institute in 2010, Jerel began his career at national automotive repair chain locations, where he earned eight certifications from the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). 

From 2017 to 2022, he worked as a General Motors-certified technician at a Cadillac dealership, refining his skills in manufacturer-specific diagnostics and service procedures. Today, Jerel leads as the senior technician and mentor at a family-owned repair facility, where he helps guide the next generation of technicians while ensuring top-quality service.

In addition to hands-on work, Jerel contributes to the automotive community through writing detailed articles and answering technical questions to help vehicle owners better understand and care for their cars.

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Everett Cook

Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.

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