This price includes the battery itself, the labor for installation and the proper disposal of your old battery. If you want driveway service, some retailers charge a mobile install fee ($30–$60).
- Battery (part cost): $200 – $300+
- Labor & installation: $39 – $117+
For precise costs that factor in your exact car and location, use a repair estimator like the one in the Jerry app.
Real customers Jerry has helped
Costs for replacing your car battery depend on your exact vehicle, where you live and the quality of the battery used. With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need to replace a car battery.
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
The price you pay for an battery replacement will depend on your car, where you live, and the parts installed. Jerry helps you quickly see what other drivers are spending today. Here are some examples of customers we’ve helped get the best prices available on their batteries:
Battery type & technology:
Standard lead-acid batteries are the basic, older-style car batteries and usually cost less. AGM or EFB batteries are heavier-duty batteries that many newer cars use (especially cars with auto start-stop), so they typically cost more.
Battery size & power rating:
Larger batteries with higher cold cranking amps (CCA) and longer reserve capacity or premium brand warranties will cost more. Expect an extra $20–$60 depending on the specs you choose.
Battery location:
If your battery is tucked under a seat, in the trunk or behind trim, the labor is trickier and takes longer than a simple under-the-hood swap. That usually adds $30–$120 to the job.
Registration and programming:
Many newer vehicles require a battery “registration” or software update so the charging system recognizes the new battery type. Shops typically charge $25–$80 for this step and skipping it shortens the battery’s life.
Mobile installation (optional):
If you’d rather have a tech come to your driveway, most shops add a $30–$60 convenience fee.
Taxes, shop fees and refundable core charge:
$10–$25, which you’ll get back when you return the old battery for recycling.
The repair explained: What does your car battery do?
A car battery is the part that gives your vehicle the first burst of electricity it needs to start, and it also helps power electronics like lights, infotainment, and computers when the engine isn’t generating enough on its own. When a battery is healthy, you never think about it—your car starts quickly and everything electrical feels “normal.” But as a battery weakens (often from age, extreme heat or cold, short trips, or just sitting unused), you might notice slow cranking, dim headlights, warning lights, or a need for jump-starts.
If you suspect your battery is on the way out, the good news is it’s usually a straightforward fix: a quick test can confirm whether it’s the battery itself, the alternator that charges it, or even a loose/corroded connection. Replacing a battery is generally fast, but it’s important to install the right type and size for your car and make sure the terminals are clean and tight—poor connections can mimic a “bad battery” and leave you stranded again. A solid rule of thumb: if your battery is a few years old and you’re seeing starting issues, it’s worth testing now rather than waiting for it to fail at the worst possible time.
I saw this happen with a driver who complained the engine was acting up and the lights were weird. The battery tested “bad,” so it got recharged. The car seemed fine… until the battery went dead again. Unfortunately, it happened at night: the lights started failing, the driver couldn’t see well, and they drove off the road and rolled the car. Thankfully it was just bumps and bruises, but it easily could’ve been worse.
If you replace the battery yourself, check charging voltage like described earlier. If a shop replaces it, ask directly: “Did you do a charging system test?”
Symptoms of a dying car battery
Spotting battery problems early can save you money. Here’s what Jerry has seen real drivers experience—and what you should keep an eye on:
- Slow engine crank: When you turn the key or press the button, the engine turns over sluggishly (“ruh-ruh-ruh”) instead of starting crisply.
- Clicking noise when starting: You turn the key, the dashboard lights come on but then all you hear is a rapid clicking sound from the engine bay— meaning there’s not enough battery power to turn the starter.
- Dashboard warning light: A battery-shaped or alternator warning light is illuminated. In a case like this, be sure and check the charging system when checking the battery.
- Dim lights and electrical issues: Your headlights are noticeably dim when the engine is off, or your power windows move slower than usual.
- Visible corrosion: A powdery white or bluish substance has formed around the metal battery terminals.
- Old age: Most car batteries have a lifespan of only 3-5 years. If your battery is in that range, it’s wise to have it tested.
Your action plan: How to get it done right
Use this action plan to properly diagnose and resolve the issue. These steps will help you partner with your mechanic to make sure the repair is done correctly and efficiently.
Confirm the diagnosis:
Before buying anything, confirm that the battery is actually the problem. Run a quick diagnostic in the Jerry app and keep in mind that most auto parts stores will test your battery for free.
Identify the correct battery type:
Check your owner’s manual, the label on your old battery or an online guide to determine if your car needs a standard flooded, EFB, or AGM battery. Don’t downgrade from AGM; upgrading from EFB to AGM is OK if coded accordingly.
Assess the job’s difficulty:
Before you replace your battery, check where it’s located and whether your car needs the new battery “registered” (coded) to the computer. If it does, have a shop do it and make sure they register the correct battery type/size and reset the IBS/BMS—and note it on the invoice.
Get competing quotes:
The price for a battery and installation can vary between shops. Download the Jerry app to compare real quotes from local shops and retailers (parts, labor, core, tax), see who supports on-site mobile installation and book in a few taps.
DIY vs. Pro: What to expect
No matter if you plan to tackle your battery replacement at home or leave it to a shop, Jerry can provide transparent pricing for parts and labor. Here’s what to consider when deciding if this repair is right for DIY.
Related repairs & inspections
When you need a new battery, you might want to look into other related services too—bundling them can lower your overall cost. Jerry makes it easy to compare reliable prices for several repairs at once.
- Alternator and starter test: A technician will perform a quick test on the starting and charging system. This confirms that a failing alternator isn’t going to ruin your new battery and that the starter is drawing the correct amount of power. Ask for the conductance test printout/photo for your records.
- Terminal cleaning and protection: A mechanic will clean any corrosion from the battery cable terminals and apply a protective coating to prevent future buildup, ensuring a solid connection.
- Inspect the hold-down bracket: The bracket that secures the battery must be tight. A loose battery can be damaged by engine vibrations, significantly shortening its life.
Pro tip: If your new battery dies again after just a few days, ask the shop to check for an electrical drain (sometimes called a parasitic draw test) to see if something is staying on and draining the battery while the car is off.
After a jump-start or install, note that idling for 20 minutes is not a deep charge—use a smart charger or take a longer drive to fully replenish.
What our customers are asking
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How long does a car battery last?
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What is a “core charge?”
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Can a jump start damage my car?
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Does my car really need battery registration?
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Can I downgrade from AGM to flooded to save money?
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Do hybrids and EVs still have 12V batteries?
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
