How Much Does a Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement Cost?

Written by Jerry Editorial Staff and 2 others
Updated Nov 12, 2025

Jerry has assisted 40,000+ U.S. customers with dependable repair price estimates and found the cost to replace a single camshaft position sensor is typically between $127 – $203.

Repair costs 1 5x2 e1761687015999

Many V6 and V8 engines have two or more sensors, so replacing them all can increase the total cost. 

Real customers Jerry helped

The price range for a camshaft position sensor replacement can vary based on your specific car, location, and parts used. But Jerry makes it easy to see what others are paying right now. Here are some examples of customers we’ve helped find the very best prices for their ignition coil repairs.

Last Updated Nov. 12, 2025

Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.

Cost breakdown: Why the price varies

Number of sensors:
Inline engines often have 1-2; V-type engines can have 2-4. The diagnostic trouble code tells you which one failed (e.g., Bank 2 Sensor B).

Location & accessibility (the biggest driver of labor):
Top/front of valve cover (easy): Often 0.4–0.6 hr book time.
Rear bank against the firewall on a transverse V6 (hard): 1.2–1.8 hr.
Buried behind timing components (uncommon): 2.0+ hrs.

Part quality:
For timing sensors, Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) or Tier-1 (Bosch/Denso/Delphi) is strongly recommended to avoid comebacks and signal noise.

Shop type and location:
Dealers typically charge more for parts and labor than independents. Nationally, labor rates vary widely.

Diagnostic fee & billing:
Many shops charge $120–$200 to diagnose and apply it to the repair if you proceed. Parts typically carry a 25–60% markup, which helps cover warranty handling. If you bring your own part, labor warranty may be reduced.

See what a camshaft position sensor replacement cost could look like for drivers like you. Here are some examples of costs for real cars and locations.

The repair explained: What is a camshaft position sensor?

The camshaft position sensor is a small electronic “eye” that tracks the exact rotational position and speed of the camshaft(s). Your engine uses this to time spark, fuel injection and variable valve timing (VVT) to keep the engine running smoothly and cleanly.

Your car’s computer (ECU) pairs cam data with the crankshaft sensor to achieve cam/crank sync. On many dual-overhead-cam engines you’ll see Sensor “A” (intake) and Sensor “B” (exhaust); Bank 1 is always the side with Cylinder 1.

Pro tip: After replacement, some vehicles need a cam/crank correlation relearn or VVT adaptation reset with a scan tool. Make sure to ask if relearn is included, because the light may come back or the engine may still run poorly if a shop skips this step.

Symptoms of a failing camshaft position sensor

When a cam sensor fails or sends erratic data, engine timing loses sync. Unlike a failed crank sensor (which often causes a no-start), a bad cam sensor usually lets the car run—just badly.

Here’s what Jerry has found you should look out for, from helping real drivers diagnose their car issues:

  • Check Engine Light: Perform diagnostic test with the scan tool to verify which camshaft position sensor has failed. Consider that other issues may be setting the fault, such as damaged wiring, oil in a connector, etc.
  • Hard starting: Extended cranking before it fires.
  • Rough idle or stalling (especially when hot or at low speeds).
  • Poor acceleration / limp mode: Sluggish response, reduced power to protect the engine.
  • Worse fuel economy: Timing is off, so it burns more fuel.

Your action plan: How to get it done right

Follow this action plan to properly diagnose and address issues. These steps will help you work with your mechanic to ensure the repair is done correctly and efficiently.

Get a professional diagnosis:
Confirm failure with a scan tool and freeze-frame data. Have the technician explain the fault codes and what they mean, then what the repair will entail.

Understand the location:
Ask the tech to show you the sensor’s location. If it’s buried on the rear bank and hard to access, a higher labor estimate makes sense. If it’s easily accessible at the top of the engine, the labor charge shouldn’t take multiple hours.

Discuss set vs. single replacement:
Replace the failed sensor and consider replacing the mate as a preventative measure only if there’s an indication of marginal operation on the diagnostic tool, access to the second sensor has labor overlap (<0.3 hr extra) or the platform is known for paired failures.

Pro tip: Ask five important money-saving questions:

  1. Is the diagnostic fee credited if I approve the repair?
  2. What book time are you using?
  3. What part brand and warranty are offered? OEM/Tier-1 and 12 mo/12k miles are typical.
  4. Will you perform the cam/crank relearn/adaptation if required?
  5. Will you show the old part and any oil-soaked connectors?
STEVE'S CORNER
Is a scan tool worth the investment? Yes—even if you don’t do the repair yourself, you’ll have an idea of what’s making the check engine light come on by deciphering the fault codes the device brings up. 

Scan tools are easy to use. Usually, you can just plug it in to the on board diagnostic port under the dash on the steering wheel side, no disassembly required. Get a “step up” scanner rather than the basic scan unit, as it has more capability and is more useful.

There are dozens of fault codes, so don’t guess. A source with the fault codes listed, like a repair manual or one online, is absolutely necessary. After you track down the faulty component, you can decide if it’s a DIY or a pro job.
Steve Kaleff
Steve Kaleff
Auto Mechanic and Contributing Author

DIY vs. Pro: What to expect

Whether you are doing it yourself or leaving it to a pro, Jerry can help you go into the repair with confidence by giving you pricing transparency around parts and shops. Here is what to consider when deciding if you want to DIY your camshaft position sensor replacement or take it to the shop:

Cost
DIY (Easy Access Sensor)
$30–$106 (part only)
Professional Service (Hard Access Sensor)
$150–$400+
Time
DIY (Easy Access Sensor)
15–30 minutes
Professional Service (Hard Access Sensor)
1–2+ hours
Skill Level
DIY (Easy Access Sensor)
Beginner: One bolt + connector
Professional Service (Hard Access Sensor)
Intermediate–Advanced: Tight, blind access
Risk
DIY (Easy Access Sensor)
Low if accessible
Professional Service (Hard Access Sensor)
Low, but easy to break connectors or misroute harness

When to skip DIY: Pay a pro if access requires removing engine mounts, intake manifolds or you can’t physically see/reach the sensor. Breaking a brittle connector or mis-torquing the bolt is a fast way to turn a $200 job into a bigger repair.

If you need your camshaft position sensor replaced, you may want to check other related repairs as well–you can save by bundling services together. Jerry helps you find reliable repair prices for multiple services all in the app.

  • Other cam/crank sensors: If one failed at high miles, scan live data on the companion sensors. Replace in pairs only if the second shows noise/slow response or access overlaps significantly.
  • Valve cover gasket leaks: Oil dripping onto the sensor or inside the connector can corrupt the signal—fix the leak or the code returns.
  • VVT (variable valve timing) solenoids & oil screens: Sludged oil or stuck VVT solenoids mimic bad sensors. If oil is dirty or the wrong viscosity, change oil/filter first and recheck.
  • Timing chain/belt condition: Rattle at cold start plus cam codes points to chain stretch or tensioner issues. A new sensor won’t fix mechanical timing errors.
  • Wiring & pigtail health: Cracked insulation, rubbed-through wires or broken connector locks are common. Replacing a pigtail is often the real fix.

Find shop quotes in the Jerry app that highlight whether the estimate includes connector/pigtail repair, valve cover gaskets, VVT cleaning and post-repair drive cycle if required.

What our customers are asking

  • Can I drive with a bad camshaft sensor?
  • How many camshaft sensors does my car have?
  • What’s the difference between a camshaft and crankshaft sensor?
Still have questions? Contact us
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Jerry Editorial Staff
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Steve Kaleff

Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!

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Everett Cook

Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.

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