Jerry has provided reliable repair price estimates to more than 40,000 customers across the U.S. and found the average engine mount cost runs $487–$535 for a standard mount and $500–$1,500 for hydraulic/active mounts or tough access jobs. On economy cars, expect $250–$550; compact SUVs often land $300–$800 while luxury or performance vehicles typically cost $600–$1,500. If multiple mounts are replaced in one visit, the total can reach $600–$2,000+.
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
Several factors drive engine mount cost differences:
- Number of mounts replaced: One is cheapest; replacing two or more together saves overlap labor.
 - Mount type: Rubber is cheapest, hydraulic costs more and active/electronic are the most expensive.
 - Vehicle layout and access: Tight luxury bays, AWD crossmembers, and turbo plumbing raise labor time.
 - Part choice: Aftermarket mounts can be 20–40% cheaper than OEM, but poor-quality units may cause vibration.
 - Labor rate/region: Dealers and metro areas often charge 20–50% more than independents.
 - Alignment: Required if a subframe is loosened or dropped (+$100–$180).
 - Add-ons: Brackets, torque struts, or transmission mounts found cracked mid-job can add $50–$400.
 
See what an engine mount cost could look like for drivers like you. Here are some examples of costs for real vehicles and locations.
What is an engine mount?
An engine to the chassis. Its job is to:
- Isolate vibration so the cabin stays smooth.
 - Hold the engine in place under torque loads, preventing stress on axles, exhaust, or hoses.
 
Most vehicles use three to four mounts: a main weight-bearing mount, a transmission mount, and one or two torque struts. Over time, rubber cracks, hydraulic chambers leak, or active systems fail—causing vibration, clunks, or movement.
What are signs that you need engine mounts replaced?
Watch for these classic bad engine mount symptoms:
- Vibration at idle that improves at higher RPM.
 - Clunk/thud on startup, shutdown, or when shifting.
 - Noticeable engine lurch under throttle blips.
 - New cabin buzzing/rattles.
 - Visible cracks, separation, or hydraulic fluid leaks on the mount.
 
Pro tip: Symptoms that change with engine load (not road speed) usually point to mounts. Vibrations that track road speed usually mean tires or axles.
Your action plan: How to save money
To avoid overspending on motor mount repair:
- Confirm the diagnosis: Misfires, bent wheels, or exhaust contact can mimic bad mounts. Check for hydraulic fluid leaks on oil filled mounts or large engine movement when engaging gears.
 - Get detailed quotes: Ask for mount location, part brand/type, hardware, access notes, and alignment details. Request photos/videos of the torn mount.
 - Choose quality parts: Sensitive vehicles do best with OEM or high-quality aftermarket.
 - Bundle wisely: If several mounts show wear, replacing them together prevents repeat labor and higher costs.
 - Check for recalls/technical service bulletins: Some active/vacuum-controlled mounts require relearn or software updates.
 - Time your visit smartly: Mid-week appointments give shops more flexibility for rusted/seized bolts.
 
DIY vs. Pro: Can I do this myself?
Replacing an engine mount is possible for experienced DIYers with the right tools—but access and safe engine support make it tricky.
| Factor | DIY | Pro Shop | 
|---|---|---|
| Skill level | Intermediate to advanced; must safely support engine | Experienced techs handle seized hardware and tricky access | 
| Tools | Engine support bar or jack + wood block, torque wrench, service info | Full lift, support fixtures, OE tools, scan tools for active mounts | 
| Time | 2–6 hours depending on design/corrosion | 1.5–4.0 hours typical | 
| Risks | Damaging oil pans, mis-torquing, preload issues, reusing TTY bolts | Very low—covered by shop warranty | 
| When it makes sense | Single top mount, easy access, rust-free hardware | AWD, hydraulic/active mounts, subframe drops, alignment needed | 
| Total cost | Parts only ($50–$600), plus hardware | Higher labor cost, but correct installation + warranty | 
Pro tip: Always torque mounts at ride height to avoid preload that increases vibration. Many Euro cars use single-use bolts—replace them.
Related repairs
Shops often check adjacent parts while replacing mounts:
- Transmission mounts and torque struts.
 - Exhaust flex joints, hangers, and shields.
 - CV axles and support bearings.
 - Subframe and control arm bushings.
 - Damper pulleys and accessory brackets.
 - Radiator hoses and cooler lines (tension after engine shifts).
 
Bundling these prevents repeat labor and “chasing” vibrations.
What our customers are asking
- 
  
  
  Can I drive with a bad engine mount?
 - 
  
  
  Do I need all mounts replaced at once?
 - 
  
  
  How long do mounts last?
 - 
  
  
  Do mounts cause highway vibration?
 - 
  
  
  Do I need an alignment after replacement?
 - 
  
  
  How long does the repair take?
 - 
  
  
  Can software fix vibration on active mounts?
 - 
  
  
  Is it covered by warranty?
 
          Beginning with Hot Wheels toys as a preschooler, Rocco’s lifelong passion for cars has taken him from high school occupational courses to decades of master mechanic experience in mobile, dealership and independent auto shops.
Rocco’s professional career began in 1997 with factory Ford training in San Diego. While gaining invaluable experience in dealerships and independent shops, he went forward to complete Toyota factory training and graduated from the Universal Technical Institute near Chicago in 2009.
In 2014, Rocco opened Rocco’s Mobile Auto Repair in California servicing Los Angeles, Orange and San Diego Counties with both individual and fleet-based services. After years of success, Rocco shifted his work model from running a business to managing an independent automotive shop. Now in Tennessee, he focuses on training new technicians to be their best.
          Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
          Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.
  
    
    
    
                          
                          
                          
                          
                          