Older cars land at the low end; push-button and luxury models trend higher. Use the following rule of thumb: Total = parts + labor (between 0.7 and 2.0 hours) + programming (if required) + diagnostic + tax/shop fees (about 2% to 10%).
To get precise estimates for your car and location, use the repair estimator tool in the Jerry app for more clarity.
Real customers Jerry helped
Pricing depends on different factors–vehicle type, location, and parts used. To take the guesswork out of repairs, Jerry uses real customer experiences to show what drivers are paying right now. Here are some examples:
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
The repair explained: what the ignition switch does
The ignition switch is the power gatekeeper. Turning the key—or pressing START—tells the car to power the ECU/fuel system, energize accessories, and send a start signal to the starter relay/motor. On older cars the lock cylinder (mechanical) is separate from the electrical switch; many modern vehicles bundle the function inside a smart key/push-button module that talks to the immobilizer.
Symptoms of a failing ignition switch
Jerry customers are seeing these typical switch symptoms: intermittent no-crank, flickering accessories when you bump the key, loss of power in ON, or a push-button that does nothing despite a healthy battery.
You can triage your vehicle:
- Jiggle the key lightly while running: if the cluster resets or accessories flicker, the ignition switch may be faulty.
- Starts in neutral but not in park: suspect the gear selector neutral safety switch, not the ignition switch.
Cost breakdown: why prices vary
Jerry customers are seeing that prices vary based on a few known factors.
Vehicle design and access (≈30–40% impact).
The switch is often buried behind trim, airbags, or column brackets. More disassembly equals more labor. Key-turn setups with a separate switch are usually cheaper; integrated steering-lock housings and push-button “smart” modules raise parts cost and may add programming.
Parts type:
OEM vs. aftermarket (≈15–25%). OEM switches run ~$100–$200; quality aftermarket are ~$40–$120. OE is often preferred for anti-theft compatibility, but either choice can swing the total by $50–$150.
Immobilizer/key programming (≈10–20%).
If the job touches the immobilizer or needs new keys, expect $75–$150 per key plus a scan-tool setup fee. Older mechanical-only systems usually skip this.
Shop labor rate and location (≈20–30%).
Dealers in metro areas may charge $160+ per hour; strong independents run ~$100–$140. Dealers are best for tricky immobilizer flashes; independents deliver strong value. Also, mobile locksmiths can be economical for key work on many non-luxury models.
Misdiagnosis (variable, costly).
Replacing a switch when the real issue is the starter, battery, range/neutral switch, or immobilizer antenna wastes money. Good diagnostics save more than most parts coupons.
Your action plan: spend less, avoid headaches
Confirm the diagnosis.
Ask the shop to confirm start-request status in the scan tool and perform additional testing as necessary to confirm a faulty ignition switch. Also verify battery, starter, relays, and the neutral safety/clutch switch.
Clarify what’s being replaced.
The lock cylinder (mechanical), the ignition switch (electrical), and the push-button/immobilizer module are different parts. Make sure the estimate matches the failed component.
Ask about OE-equivalent options.
On mainstream models, a quality aftermarket switch can save $50–$150; on luxury or finicky anti-theft systems, OEM may be worth it.
Provide your VIN and how many keys you have.
This helps price the correct part and reveal any programming needs—reducing surprises.
Check recalls and Technical Service Bulletins.
Some brands have ignition or steering-lock bulletins; recalls may be free. Have the shop/VIN portal check before ordering parts.
Choose the right shop.
A good independent shop can be 20–30% less than a dealer; a dealer may still be faster (and therefore cheaper overall) for complex immobilizer work. For key programming, a mobile locksmith is often the best value on non-luxury platforms.
Bundle work if the column’s apart.
Tack on loose trim or a worn lock cylinder to avoid duplicate labor later.
Post-repair sanity check: Check to see if anything in the ignition switch (trim pieces, the mechanical part of the ignition switch) area needs attention/replacement. Addressing items like this at the same time will save money by avoiding duplicate labor.
Related repairs and inspections
Because symptoms overlap, Jerry customers are finding that shops often inspect or quote these with the switch:
- Ignition lock cylinder (key sticks or won’t turn, but electricals are fine).
- Starter motor or relay (no crank despite a good switch).
- Battery/alternator testing (low voltage mimics switch failure).
- Immobilizer antenna or key/fob battery (authorization blocked on push-button cars).
- Neutral safety switch/range sensor (starts in Neutral, not Park).
DIY vs. pro: what to expect
If your car is older with a simple key-turn setup, replacing the electrical switch can be a manageable Saturday project. Anything involving airbags, shear bolts, or immobilizer programming is best left to a pro. Jerry’s pricing and diagnostic tools can help you make a more informed decision.
Safety musts: Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 10 minutes before touching SRS/column trim. Yellow connectors = airbag—do not probe; don’t rotate the wheel with the column apart.
DIY vs. pro at a glance
What our customers are asking
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Is it safe to keep driving with a bad ignition switch?
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How long does replacement take?
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Do I need new keys after replacing the switch?
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Ignition switch vs. lock cylinder—what’s the difference?
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Could the starter or battery be the real problem?
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Can jump-starting bypass a bad ignition switch?
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.
