Oil changes are straightforward, but pricing isn’t one-size-fits-all. A full synthetic service for late-model cars is usually $75–$105, while high-capacity or Euro-spec systems often reach $110–$160+.
Real customers Jerry has helped
Costs for changing your oil depend on your exact car, where you live and the quality of oil used. With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need an oil change.
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
Jerry helps customers track down great repair prices every day, and we’ve learned there are a few key reasons those prices can differ:
Oil type:
Upgrading from conventional to synthetic blend usually adds about $10–$20, and going from blend to full synthetic adds about $20–$35; special European/low-SAPS oils can add another $10–$25.
Oil capacity:
Each extra quart of oil is about $7–$12, so needing 2–4 extra quarts can add roughly $15–$50.
Filter type:
OEM (factory) or cartridge-style oil filters usually cost more than basic spin-on filters, adding about $5–$25.
Access & labor:
Extra steps like removing skid plates or working in a tight engine bay can add $10–$30 in labor.
Shop choice:
Quick-lube shops are often $15–$50 cheaper than dealerships for the same basic oil change.
Fees & extras:
Shop supplies and oil disposal typically add $5–$15, and optional services like engine “flushes” can add another $40–$120.
Pro tip: The drain plug washer or gasket is an item that is often missed. Always replace it—or ask the shop to see the old one—to evade preventable oil leaks.
Oil change basics: What engine oil is and why it needs changing
Engine oil is basically your engine’s lifeblood. It lubricates all the moving metal parts so they slide smoothly instead of grinding, which reduces wear and helps prevent overheating. Oil also carries tiny bits of dirt and metal to the oil filter, where they get trapped instead of scratching up the engine. Over time, heat and normal use break the oil down and load it with gunk, so it can’t protect as well.
You’ll often see a choice between conventional and synthetic oil.
- Conventional oil is made from refined crude oil and works fine for many daily drivers under normal conditions.
- Synthetic oil is engineered to be more stable in extreme temperatures, flow better when it’s very cold, and resist breaking down as quickly, which can mean better protection and longer change intervals for many cars.
Some engines (and many new cars) specifically require synthetic oil, so it’s important to follow the oil type listed in your owner’s manual or on the under-hood label.
A 2013 GMC Terrain came in rattling and stalling. Before even starting it, the oil dipstick was bone-dry. The owner had gone about 9,000 miles on oil only rated for around 6,000 miles, so the engine had been running low on protection for a long time.
Even after adding oil, the rattle stayed. Under the valve cover, the timing chain was stretched and its plastic guides were broken – an expensive fix, around $1,500. Takeaway for everyday drivers: don’t stretch your oil changes past what your manual or oil label recommends. Those “extra” miles can cost you.
Signs you need an oil change
Know when you need an oil change. Every day, Jerry helps customers diagnose their cars and find reliable repair costs, and has found the following ways to tell that you need an oil change:
- Oil or “maintenance required” light is on: The most clear signal – your dash is telling you it’s time for service.
- Oil looks very dark or gritty: Fresh oil is amber; dirty oil on the dipstick looks black and sludgy.
- Engine sounds louder than usual: Knocking, ticking, or more engine noise—especially at start-up—can mean the oil isn’t protecting well.
- Burning smell from the engine bay: A hot, burnt-oil smell can mean old or low oil.
- Exhaust looks smoky or bluish: This can indicate the engine is burning oil and needs attention ASAP.
- It’s been a long time since your last change: If you’re past the mileage or months in your owner’s manual, you’re overdue—even if everything “seems” fine.
Your action plan: How to save money
These steps will help you communicate with your mechanic and ensure your oil change is handled correctly and efficiently.
Match specs exactly:
Compare quotes that use the same oil type/spec, the exact oil quantity, and the same (or equivalent) filter brand.
Bundle routine work:
Add things you were going to do anyway—like a tire rotation or scheduled inspection—so you save time and sometimes money. The Jerry app helps customers get quotes from local shops for multiple services at once.
Skip optional extras:
Say no to engine flushes or fuel cleanings unless your car has clear symptoms or your mechanic explains why you truly need them.
Hunt for coupons:
Check chain stores and dealership sites or emails for coupons or promos before you book.
Contact multiple shops:
Use the Jerry app to call or message 2–3 local shops instead of accepting the first price you see.
Share car details:
Give each shop your year/make/model (or VIN), your oil spec and capacity (they can look it up), and your current mileage so the quote is accurate.
Request full breakdown:
Ask for an out-the-door estimate that lists oil viscosity/approval, oil brand and quarts billed, filter brand/part #, drain plug/crush washer if replaced, labor time and hourly rate, supplies/disposal, all taxes/fees, and any add-ons clearly marked as optional.
DIY vs. Pro: Can I do this myself?
Doing an oil change yourself can save money if your car is simple and you’re comfortable with basic hand tools. Cars with low ground clearance, high-tech or warranty coverage should be left to the pros. Whichever you choose, Jerry can give you confidence going into the service through price transparency around parts and shop costs.
What our customers are asking
-
How often should I get my oil replaced?
-
Is it safe to go over the mileage for my next oil change a little?
-
Do I need the dealer for an oil change?
-
Will “high-mileage” oil fix leaks?
-
Can I switch between synthetic and conventional oil?
-
What should I do with my old oil?
Jerel Lawrence is an experienced and certified automotive technician with a strong foundation in diagnostics, repair and technical mentorship. A graduate of NASCAR Technical Institute in 2010, Jerel began his career at national automotive repair chain locations, where he earned eight certifications from the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE).
From 2017 to 2022, he worked as a General Motors-certified technician at a Cadillac dealership, refining his skills in manufacturer-specific diagnostics and service procedures. Today, Jerel leads as the senior technician and mentor at a family-owned repair facility, where he helps guide the next generation of technicians while ensuring top-quality service.
In addition to hands-on work, Jerel contributes to the automotive community through writing detailed articles and answering technical questions to help vehicle owners better understand and care for their cars.
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
