Is it safe to drive with a leaking oil pan?

Short trips with a minor seep might not strand you today, but any active leak is risky. Oil can fall below the safe level quickly—especially at highway speeds. If you see fresh drips where you park or the oil light flickers, park it and tow.

How do I know it’s really the pan leaking?

Clean the area and use UV dye. If the pan gasket seam lights up, it’s the pan. If oil starts higher (valve cover, timing cover, oil filter housing), fix that first. Good shops will document with photos.

Can I just use stop-leak?

Not recommended. “Swelling” additives can compromise rubber elsewhere, and they don’t fix a cracked pan or stripped threads. They also risk clogging small oil passages.

Is a thread insert (heli-coil/timesert) legit?

Yes—when done correctly, it’s a durable repair and common in professional shops. It’s much cheaper than replacing the whole pan, provided the surrounding metal is still sound.

Will I need an alignment after an oil pan job?

Only if the repair required dropping the subframe or loosening suspension components. Ask your shop—they should note this on the estimate. Many pan jobs do not affect alignment.

How long should a new pan gasket or reseal last?

Years. With proper prep (clean, dry, correct RTV/gasket, correct torque), it should last tens of thousands of miles. Premature leaks usually trace back to surface prep or the wrong sealant.

What if my pan is dented but not leaking?

Light cosmetic dents are often fine. But if the dent is near the pickup area and reduces oil capacity or could contact the pickup screen, replace the pan. A deep dent can starve the engine on corners or hard braking.

Should the shop inspect the pickup screen?

If the engine has a history of sludge, RTV overuse, or metal debris, yes. When the pan’s off, it’s smart to peek at the pickup screen and clean it if needed.

Does insurance cover oil pan damage?

Collision or comprehensive insurance might cover a pan cracked by road debris or an impact. Wear-and-tear leaks aren’t covered. If you think debris caused it, take pictures and call your insurer.

How Much Does an Oil Pan Replacement Cost?

Written by Jerry Editorial Staff and 2 others

Updated Nov 15, 2025

Jerry has helped over 40,000 access accurate repair costs and has found that drivers pay $300–$900 to fix an oil pan issue, with a typical average around $550 for this engine oil leak repair.

Simple gasket reseals land at the lower end (typical oil pan gasket replacement cost); full oil pan replacements—especially on AWD trucks (AWD truck oil pan access), performance cars, or vehicles that require subframe removal (and the associated subframe removal cost)—can run $900–$2,000+ (oil pan replacement cost).

Download the Jerry app to get a quick, data-backed oil pan cost estimate for your exact vehicle and location.

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Real customers Jerry helped

While price points may vary across locations and vehicles, Jerry uses real customer experiences to show what drivers are paying right now. Here are some customer examples:

Date	Customer Name	Car	Location	Part cost	Labor time (min)	Labor cost	Total cost

Date	Customer Name	Car	Location	Part cost	Labor time (min)	Labor cost	Total cost

11/14/25	Ivan G.	2009 Chevrolet Traverse	Jackson, MO	$76.56	45	$89.73	$166.30
11/14/25	Francis W.	2005 Chevrolet Express 2500	Waterville, ME	$50.56	45	$103.02	$153.58
11/14/25	Eula G.	2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500	Grand Rapids, MI	$603.04	45	$111.87	$714.91
11/14/25	May J.	1998 Volkswagen Golf	Ocala, FL	$139.72	45	$87.13	$226.85
11/14/25	Eric P.	2003 Nissan Sentra	Gainesville, FL	$86.77	45	$93.34	$180.10
11/14/25	Edna D.	2006 Kia Sorento	Atoka, OK	$95.34	45	$93.43	$188.77
11/14/25	Herman S.	2011 Toyota Sequoia	Canandaigua, NY	$161.66	45	$90.33	$251.99

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

Ivan G.

Car

2009 Chevrolet Traverse

Location

Jackson, MO

Part cost

$76.56

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$89.73

Total cost

$166.30

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

Francis W.

Car

2005 Chevrolet Express 2500

Location

Waterville, ME

Part cost

$50.56

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$103.02

Total cost

$153.58

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

Eula G.

Car

2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Location

Grand Rapids, MI

Part cost

$603.04

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$111.87

Total cost

$714.91

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

May J.

Car

1998 Volkswagen Golf

Location

Ocala, FL

Part cost

$139.72

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$87.13

Total cost

$226.85

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

Eric P.

Car

2003 Nissan Sentra

Location

Gainesville, FL

Part cost

$86.77

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$93.34

Total cost

$180.10

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

Edna D.

Car

2006 Kia Sorento

Location

Atoka, OK

Part cost

$95.34

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$93.43

Total cost

$188.77

Date

11/14/25

Customer Name

Herman S.

Car

2011 Toyota Sequoia

Location

Canandaigua, NY

Part cost

$161.66

Labor time (min)

Labor cost

$90.33

Total cost

$251.99

Last Updated Nov. 15, 2025

Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.

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What is an oil pan?

Think of the oil pan as your engine’s bathtub. It sits at the bottom of the engine and stores the engine oil when the engine is off or idling. When you start the car, the oil pump pulls oil from the pan through a pickup tube and screen, circulates it through the engine to lubricate bearings, camshafts, and cylinder walls, and then gravity returns it to the pan. Oil pans usually seal to the engine block with either a gasket (rubber, cork, or molded composite) or form-in-place room temperature vulcanizing sealer (RTV).

Because the pan sits low, it’s vulnerable to:

Road debris or curb strikes that can dent or crack it.
Corrosion in salty climates.
Stripped drain plug threads from overtightening during oil changes.
Gasket aging that causes seeping or leaking.

Left alone, oil pan leaks can drop oil levels, starve the engine of lubrication, and lead to expensive engine damage. That’s why shops take these leaks seriously.

Symptoms of a failing oil pan

Jerry customers are coming across dripping oil as the most common indicator of a leaking oil pan:

One drip indicates a slow leak.
A puddle roughly four inches in diameter indicates a moderate leak. Repair as soon as possible. Check the oil level regularly if you’re at this stage.
A big puddle of engine oil indicates major damage. Don’t drive the vehicle, as catastrophic damage could occur. Tow the vehicle to the shop for immediate repair.

Cost breakdown: why the price varies

For oil pan work, Jerry customers are finding that labor time is the big swing factor. Here’s how each piece of the puzzle may move the needle.

Vehicle design and access (biggest factor):
On many sedans, the pan is right there—drop it, reseal it, done. On others, the exhaust, crossmember, or even the subframe is in the way, which can significantly increase costs.

Labor rate (15–30%):
Urban areas and dealer shops typically charge more than independent garages in smaller markets.

Extent of damage (20–40%):
Get the specifics. Corrosion, seeps, or damaged threads will yield different repair costs.

Parts quality (10–25%):
Genuine/OE pans and molded gaskets cost more. Aftermarket can save money, but, on some models, the OE design and sealant give the best long-term result.

Fluids, sealants, and extras (5–10%):
Fresh oil and filter are a must after pan work. Many pans also require RTV sealant, crush washers, and sometimes new bolts.

Taxes, shop supplies, and fees (5–8%):
These aren’t the headliners, but they add up and vary by location.

Your action plan: how to save money

Before you authorize a big-ticket job, a few “insider” moves can protect your wallet.

Confirm it’s the pan.
A leaky valve cover, timing cover, or oil filter housing can masquerade as an oil pan leak. Jerry’s diagnostic tool can confirm the issue

Ask if a thread insert will solve a stripped drain plug.
If the pan is otherwise healthy, a heli-coil/timesert repair plus fresh oil can save you hundreds over a new pan.

Request the exact labor time and what’s in the way.
If a subframe/exhaust/crossmember needs to be dropped, that explains the estimate.

Choose parts smartly.
Ask what the shop recommends between OE and aftermarket parts.

Bundle services.
If a subframe is coming down anyway, see if it’s a good time for sway bar bushings, engine mounts, or leaky axle seals you’ve been putting off—labor overlap can mean real savings.

Prevent the next leak.
Replace the drain plug washer, torque the plug to spec, and stick to the right oil viscosity.

DIY vs. pro: Can I do this myself?

Here’s a quick lens to decide if DIY is feasible for you. Jerry offers customers clarity on parts and labor rates to help make the right decision.

A quick note before the table: use it to gauge risk, tools, and time—not just cost. An error here (like over-RTVing and clogging the pickup screen) can be far pricier than paying a pro.

Factor	DIY reality	Pro shop advantage
Access & support	Safely lift/support the car and sometimes the engine. Tight spaces can be frustrating.	Proper lifts, engine support bars, and experience make access safer and faster.
Time	2–8+ hours depending on design; first-timers plan for the high end.	Flat-rate proficiency and time efficiency.
Tools & materials	Torque wrench, scraper/plastic razors, RTV, gasket, thread insert kit (if needed), brake cleaner, torque specs.	Full tool set, surface prep tools, service info, proper RTV.
Sealing technique	Easy to over-apply RTV or miss critical bead paths around seams/bolts.	Techs know where to bridge joints and how long to skin over RTV before assembly.
Risk to other parts	Stripping bolts, bending the flange, contaminating the pickup screen with debris.	Lower risk; procedures for errors in place.
Cost	$50–$150 in parts/fluids for a gasket reseal; more if you need a pan or insert kit.	$180–$500 (gasket reseal) or $300–$1,200+ (pan replacement), but the repair usually comes with a warranty.

Access & support

DIY reality

Safely lift/support the car and sometimes the engine. Tight spaces can be frustrating.

Pro shop advantage

Proper lifts, engine support bars, and experience make access safer and faster.

Time

DIY reality

2–8+ hours depending on design; first-timers plan for the high end.

Pro shop advantage

Flat-rate proficiency and time efficiency.

Tools & materials

DIY reality

Torque wrench, scraper/plastic razors, RTV, gasket, thread insert kit (if needed), brake cleaner, torque specs.

Pro shop advantage

Full tool set, surface prep tools, service info, proper RTV.

Sealing technique

DIY reality

Easy to over-apply RTV or miss critical bead paths around seams/bolts.

Pro shop advantage

Techs know where to bridge joints and how long to skin over RTV before assembly.

Risk to other parts

DIY reality

Stripping bolts, bending the flange, contaminating the pickup screen with debris.

Pro shop advantage

Lower risk; procedures for errors in place.

Cost

DIY reality

$50–$150 in parts/fluids for a gasket reseal; more if you need a pan or insert kit.

Pro shop advantage

$180–$500 (gasket reseal) or $300–$1,200+ (pan replacement), but the repair usually comes with a warranty.

STEVE'S CORNER

Research the repair carefully before committing to a DIY approach. With difficulty in accessing necessary components, this repair is involved and best left to the pros. If DIY is still on the table, determine if the pan is removable without raising the engine before you begin. An oil pick up may block the oil pan at the top with the subframe blocking it at the bottom. The only solution is to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine until there’s enough clearance to remove the pan.

Steve Kaleff

Auto Mechanic and Contributing Author

Depending on your engine, Jerry customers are addressing other common culprits of oil drippage to include:

Valve cover gasket: Oil pooling around the top of the engine and running down.
Timing cover gasket/seal: Especially on high-mileage engines with front main seal seepage.
Oil filter housing/cooler seals: Very common on some makes; leaks can travel.
Rear main seal: Typically more expensive; leaks from the transmission bellhousing area.
PCV system faults: Excess crankcase pressure that pushes oil past seals and gaskets.

A good shop will inspect and prioritize these before prescribing an oil pan job. While you’re checking, you can also view open recalls in Jerry to rule out any manufacturer fixes related to oil leaks or sealing.

Get a repair quote

What our customers are asking

Is it safe to drive with a leaking oil pan?

Short trips with a minor seep might not strand you today, but any active leak is risky. Oil can fall below the safe level quickly—especially at highway speeds. If you see fresh drips where you park or the oil light flickers, park it and tow.
How do I know it’s really the pan leaking?

Clean the area and use UV dye. If the pan gasket seam lights up, it’s the pan. If oil starts higher (valve cover, timing cover, oil filter housing), fix that first. Good shops will document with photos.
Can I just use stop-leak?

Not recommended. “Swelling” additives can compromise rubber elsewhere, and they don’t fix a cracked pan or stripped threads. They also risk clogging small oil passages.
Is a thread insert (heli-coil/timesert) legit?

Yes—when done correctly, it’s a durable repair and common in professional shops. It’s much cheaper than replacing the whole pan, provided the surrounding metal is still sound.
Will I need an alignment after an oil pan job?

Only if the repair required dropping the subframe or loosening suspension components. Ask your shop—they should note this on the estimate. Many pan jobs do not affect alignment.
How long should a new pan gasket or reseal last?

Years. With proper prep (clean, dry, correct RTV/gasket, correct torque), it should last tens of thousands of miles. Premature leaks usually trace back to surface prep or the wrong sealant.
What if my pan is dented but not leaking?

Light cosmetic dents are often fine. But if the dent is near the pickup area and reduces oil capacity or could contact the pickup screen, replace the pan. A deep dent can starve the engine on corners or hard braking.
Should the shop inspect the pickup screen?

If the engine has a history of sludge, RTV overuse, or metal debris, yes. When the pan’s off, it’s smart to peek at the pickup screen and clean it if needed.
Does insurance cover oil pan damage?

Collision or comprehensive insurance might cover a pan cracked by road debris or an impact. Wear-and-tear leaks aren’t covered. If you think debris caused it, take pictures and call your insurer.

Download the Jerry app to keep maintenance and recall checks in one place—then price your repair and book when you’re ready.

Still have questions? Contact us

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Our experts

Steve Kaleff

Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!

Nick Wilson

Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.