On vehicles with heavy corrosion, leaking wheel cylinders or drums that can’t be resurfaced, the total can reach $650–$1,000. Prices include parts and labor.
Quotes may appear “per wheel,” but reputable shops usually price and repair per axle for safety and balance. Taxes, shop supplies and hazardous-waste disposal fees are commonly itemized on top of the base estimate.
Because brake systems are repaired in pairs, this covers parts on both wheels of a single axle.
- Average parts cost (per wheel): $100–$250 typical (up to $500 if new drums and wheel cylinders are needed)
- Average labor rate (per wheel): $90–$150 (vehicle and region dependent)
Pro tip: Any brake system issue should be dealt with quickly. Delaying repairs puts your vehicle at risk and is a serious safety issue, so it’s essential to find the right shop to complete this job.
To get a precise estimate for your car and location, get a real quote from a nearby shop using the Jerry app.
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
Design, vehicle class and condition affect cost. Typical per-axle scenarios:
| Scenario | What’s Included | Typical Time | Typical Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic | Shoes + hardware; clean/lube adjusters; manual adjust; bleed as needed; reuse drums within spec | 1.5–2.0 hr | $350–$550 |
| Standard | Basic + resurface drums | 2.0–2.5 hr | $450–$700 |
| Replace drums | Shoes + hardware + new drums; adjust & bleed | 2.0–3.0 hr | $550–$850 |
| With cylinders | Standard + new wheel cylinders | 2.5–3.5 hr | $650–$1,000 |
What drives the price
- Vehicle type: Full-size trucks/SUVs and Rus Belt vehicles trend high (seized hardware, stuck drums); compact sedans skew lower.
- Shop type: Dealers often price higher and use Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts only. Quality independents offer OEM or reputable aftermarket. Mobile mechanics can be competitive but may not machine drums on-site. If resurfacing is needed, expect shop time or replacement.
- Regional labor: Urban areas commonly charge $100–$150/hr; rural rates often run $75–$125/hr.
- Parts choices: Shoes + hardware are usually replaced as a kit. Drums are resurfaced only if they remain under maximum diameter; otherwise replaced. Reputable aftermarket parts offer strong value; coated drums resist rust and severe-duty shoes help with towing/mountain driving.
- Extra work that adds cost: Removing drums with heavy rust lips, replacing stretched parking-brake cables, cleaning contaminated linings from axle-seal leaks and swapping damaged backing plates. If a drum can’t be machined to a proper finish while staying under maximum diameter, replacement is the safe path.
What are brake drums?
Rear brakes may be discs or drums. Drums are common on heavier vehicles (trucks, full-size SUVs) and many pre-2010 cars.
A drum is a round housing on the hub. Pressing the pedal activates internal “shoes” that create friction on the spinning drum to slow the vehicle. Heat and wear mean shoes, hardware and sometimes drums need replacement.
A complete service typically includes:
- New shoes and a hardware kit (return springs, hold-downs, adjuster parts).
- Cleaning and lubricating the star-wheel adjuster and backing-plate pads.
- Resurfacing or replacing drums based on condition and the MAX DIA (maximum inside diameter) stamped on the drum.
- Wheel cylinders replaced if leaking or seized (not automatically).
- Inspection for axle-seal leaks and scored backing plates that can cause recurring noise or drag.
Symptoms of failing brake drums
If you notice any of the following, have a mechanic diagnose and repair:
- Scraping or grinding from the rear when braking (worn shoes or out-of-round/scored drum).
- Low-speed pedal vibration or pulsing (runout or heat spots).
- Parking brake travel increases or won’t hold on an incline (misadjustment, worn shoes, or cable/linkage issues).
- One rear wheel runs hot or smells burning after a short drive (dragging shoe, seized adjuster or sticky wheel cylinder).
- Dark dust on rear wheels can occur, but with front discs/rear drums, dust alone is a weak indicator—pair with other symptoms.
- Fluid streaks on the inside of the wheel/backing plate, or a gradual drop in master-cylinder fluid level, suggest a wheel-cylinder leak.
Your action plan
When facing brake drum repairs, it’s crucial to be proactive and informed. Follow these steps to ensure a safe and cost-effective resolution:
Schedule an inspection immediately if you notice grinding, vibration or any warning signs.
Get competing quotes:
Pull apples-to-apples estimates from multiple stores if a line item looks off.
Ask the right questions:
Will you install a new hardware kit with the shoes?
What’s the maximum diameter and the measured diameter after machining? If machining exceeds spec, will you replace the drums?
Are the wheel cylinders dry and moving freely? If not, will you replace them?
Will you bleed the rear circuit and perform a final manual adjustment?
What are the parts and labor warranties? (Shoes often “lifetime”; drums/hardware ~12 mo/12k; labor varies.)
Can you check TSBs/recalls for my year/make/model before we proceed?
Can you provide photos or measurements of worn parts for my records?
Don’t automatically choose the lowest price:
For safety-critical brakes, prioritize trusted workmanship and quality parts.
DIY vs. Pro: Why this is a job for the pros
Brake integrity is critical. This repair demands bleeding know-how, manual adjustment, and specialty tools (spring pliers, drum puller, drum micrometer to verify MAX DIA and adjustment tools).
Springs are under tension, and left/right hardware is mirrored—misrouted springs or incorrect shoe orientation can cause dragging, poor stopping or lockup. Correct bleeding sequence, clean handling of friction surfaces and proper torque on wheels and fasteners are essential.
Unless you’ve had at least a year of automotive shop training, use an experienced mechanic.
Related repairs & inspections
- Front brakes: Vehicles with rear drums use front discs that typically wear twice as fast—inspect fronts when servicing rears.
- Brake fluid: Because fluid absorbs moisture, most shops recommend an exchange every 2–3 years—or sooner with towing, mountain driving or humid climates. Also check your owner’s manual for specifics.
- While you’re there: Have the tech check rear axle seals, wheel-bearing play/noise and the parking-brake cable equalizer for corrosion or binding.
After-service expectations & bedding
- Expect consistent, quiet stops with no pulling.
- Perform 8–10 medium stops from ~25–30 mph to bed the shoes and avoid panic stops until bedded.
- Minor improvement over the first few drives is normal as self-adjusters advance (often when reversing and braking).
- Handbrake lever/pedal travel should shorten as adjustment settles.
- Recheck brake-fluid level after a few days and have wheel-nut torque verified after 50–100 miles.
- If the pedal feels spongy or a wheel runs hot, return to the shop immediately.
Jerry’s nationwide data shows rear drum service often costs less than front disc service on the same vehicle class. Use the estimator to see patterns for your exact car and location.
FAQs
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A published columnist, automotive journalist, former service writer and ASE Automobile & Light Truck Certified technician (A1 – A9 – 1996 – 2006), Tim Charlet brings nearly four decades of automotive communication experience to the team at Jerry.
Charlet has written more than 10,000 articles, blogs and technical manuals for the automotive industry. His experience working with OEM & aftermarket manufacturers, enterprise-level dealerships and private service technicians provides him with a unique perspective on how modern cars, trucks and SUVs operate and are serviced.
Additionally, his years of digital marketing content & public relations experience provide a conversational, yet easy-to-follow writing style for both professionals and general consumers.
Along with writing for Jerry, Charlet also works with multiple automotive detailing product manufacturers, creating user-friendly and eco-friendly detailing and vehicle protection liquids.
He is also the co-founder of Right2Breathe.org, a non-profit organization dedicated to raising awareness for COPD, Asthma and other respiratory diseases within the automotive industries.
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
