Download the Jerry app to get accurate quotes from shops near you in minutes, for your exact car — no phone calls needed.
Real customers Jerry helped
While prices might vary based on location, car and parts use, Jerry helps take the guesswork out of pricing. Here are real customer experiences, showing what drivers are paying right now.
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
Cost breakdown: why the price varies
For Jerry customers, the following factors are the price swings:
Vehicle make and model:
The same job on a mainstream sedan might use a $250 to $400 throttle body, while certain luxury or turbocharged models use assemblies that cost two to three times as much. That alone can add $300 to $700 to the total.
Drive-by-wire complexity:
When the electronics fail on modern electronic throttle bodies, shops replace the whole unit — no cheap, separate sensor. That can turn into a $400 to $900 repair. Cars that still allow a separate throttle position sensor keep the bill at $100 to $300 instead.
Access and labor time:
Extra disassembly on certain cars can add from 0.5 to 1.0 hour of labor — roughly $75 to $200 depending on local rates.
Relearn/programming:
After replacement or even a battery disconnect, many vehicles need an idle relearn or throttle adaptation – adding $0 to $120 depending on shop policy and equipment. Ask whether an idle relearn procedure is required.
The root cause:
Sometimes a “bad throttle body” is really a dirty throttle plate, a vacuum leak, a crankcase/PCV issue, or a misreporting mass airflow sensor. A cleaning might save $300 to $900. For a split intake boot or bad gasket, you’ll still spend far less than a full assembly.
Region and shop rate:
Coastal metros often bill $140 to $220 per hour; smaller markets may be $95 to $150 per hour. On a one to two hour job, location alone can swing the bill by $100 to $200.
What is a throttle body?
A throttle body is the air “gateway” your engine uses to control power. When you press the gas, a round plate inside the throttle body opens to let more air in so the engine can make more power. Many modern cars use an electronic motor (drive-by-wire) instead of a physical cable.
Throttle body service usually means cleaning built-up carbon that can cause a rough idle, stalling, hesitation, or a sticky gas pedal feel. A shop may clean and then perform a throttle relearn so the computer re-calibrates idle airflow. If the electronic actuator or sensor fails, the fix may be replacement.
The car runs a series of self-checks called drive cycles. That just means the engine has to run at certain speeds (RPM) for certain lengths of time during everyday driving. While this is happening, the car usually drives normally and the Check Engine Light stays off.
It can take a couple of days of driving before the car hits all the right conditions and the status switches to “ready.” If someone scans the car during this window, the scan tool may show tests still “not ready” or a temporary fault—but in most cases, you don’t need to do anything. The system finishes the checks and resets itself.
Symptoms of a failing throttle body
Jerry customers might notice the following symptoms if the throttle body sticks, builds carbon, or the sensor or motor fails:
- Sticky/erratic idle: RPMs bounce, idle is too high/low, or the engine “hunts” at stops.
- Hesitation when you press the gas: The car bogs, stumbles, or feels delayed pulling away.
- Surging or uneven power: Acceleration feels inconsistent—like it’s giving and taking power on its own.
- Stalling at stops: The engine may die when coming to a stop or right after starting.
- Poor fuel economy: You’re filling up more often without changing how you drive.
- Check Engine light / reduced power: The light comes on and the car may go into “limp mode,” limiting acceleration.
Your action plan: how to save money
Use this action plan to properly diagnose and resolve the issue. These steps will help you partner with your mechanic to make sure the repair is done correctly and efficiently.
Get a proper diagnosis.
Ask the shop to verify throttle body operation and check for intake leaks, PCV issues, and a dirty mass airflow sensor. A $15 gasket or a $10 hose beats a $600 part any day. Jerry customers use the diagnosis tool in the app to give them confidence in their car issues before going to the shop.
Price the part wisely.
On many cars, a good-quality aftermarket throttle body works just as well as the factory (OEM) part for less money. But on some cars—often European or turbo models—OEM can help avoid drivability issues, so compare both quotes and the warranty.
Combine work and save on labor.
If the intake has to come off, consider spark plugs, the intake boot, or a PCV valve at the same time by overlapping labor costs for savings. The Jerry app helps customers get real quotes from nearby shops for multiple services at once.
DIY vs pro: Can you do this yourself?
Whether you are doing the repair yourself or leaving it to a pro, Jerry offers pricing clarity on parts and labor to help you make the right decision. Here is what to consider when making the decision:
Related repairs
Jerry customers are bundling the following repairs for greater cost savings:
- Throttle body cleaning: Carbon buildup is a common cause of sticking or rough idle, and cleaning can restore normal airflow.
- Idle relearn/throttle calibration: Many vehicles need a relearn after service to prevent surging, stalling, or high idle.
- Intake air boot/PCV hose replacement: Cracked hoses can create vacuum leaks that mimic throttle body problems.
- Mass airflow sensor cleaning/replacement: A dirty or failing MAF can cause similar symptoms (hesitation, rough idle, lean codes).
- Air filter replacement: A restricted filter can affect airflow and drivability, and it’s quick to knock out at the same time.
Price out and compare any suspected repairs with the Jerry app.
What our customers are asking
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Is it safe to drive with a bad throttle body?
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How long does replacement take?
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Do I need programming or an idle relearn?
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Can cleaning really fix it?
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Should I replace the gasket?
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What trouble codes point to throttle issues?
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Could this be covered by a warranty or recall?
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What’s the best way to avoid future problems?
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.
