Jerry has helped over 40,000 customers access accurate repair prices, and this guide can help you sort through your symptoms, find prices and get your car back out on the road.
In this guide, you’ll learn what’s likely leaking—including how to identify a transmission fluid leak, a power steering fluid leak, or a “coolant leak red” scenario—what’s risky, typical fixes, and when to call a pro—plus quick DIY tracing tips and clear “tow-now” thresholds. You’ll know when it’s okay merely to monitor and when to stop driving immediately.
As you’re diagnosing and repairing your car, turn to the Jerry app to guide you along the way with insights, pricing and an improved repair experience.
Real customers Jerry helped
While pricing can vary based on individual factors, Jerry uses real customer experiences to show what drivers are paying right now and minimize guesswork. Here are some customer examples:
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
At-a-glance: can I keep driving?
Small leaks vary from minor nuisances to serious dangers. Jerry customers are using these buckets to decide what to do next.
- 🚨 Urgent — turn it off and get help now:
- Brake pedal feels soft or sinks with any leak present (brake failure risk).
- Big red/pink puddle forming quickly (transmission or cooler failure).
- Transmission slipping, delayed engagement, or won’t move (internal damage risk). If you need >8–12 oz of ATF to regain movement, tow.
- “Strawberry milkshake” fluid in radiator/overflow (ATF mixed with coolant; often called the “strawberry milkshake transmission” issue).
- Temp climbing or heater blows cold at idle = low coolant/air in system → stop.
- 🕒 Soon — okay to drive, fix this week.
- Small but fresh red drips after parking (cooler line, pan gasket, or PS hose).
- Whining power steering and heavier wheel feel (pump or hose seep).
- Low coolant light but temperature normal and small pink drip (hose or radiator leak).
- ✅ Monitor — safe to drive.
- One-time quarter-sized spot that doesn’t grow (old residue purging).
- Light mist after recent service that stays dry after cleaning (spill not a leak).
These groups matter because ATF and coolant are lifeblood fluids. Loss of pressure or volume quickly damages transmissions or overheats engines, while brake or steering leaks can threaten control and safety.
Symptoms
Use the situations below to match what you see, including common ATF leak symptoms. Jerry customers are seeing that the right fix depends on where the leak starts and how fast it grows.
Notes: Many Asian and European coolants are pink/red; Dex-Cool looks orange-red. Some CVT or power steering fluids are different colors. Hybrids/EVs often have pink coolant but no ATF leak risk. Windshield washer fluid can be pink (alcohol smell, watery, harmless).
Risks if you ignore it
Before waiting, weigh the risks of the decision. Small leaks can suddenly become big issues.
Loss of power steering assist can make the car hard to control, especially at low speeds.
Transmission damage escalates fast: low ATF overheats clutches and bearings and revving a slipping transmission worsens the damage.
Coolant loss can overheat the engine, which warps heads or blows gaskets.
Brake fluid loss reduces stopping power; total brake failure is possible.
Early fixes are usually hundreds, not thousands—waiting often multiplies the bill.
Extra cautions: coolant is toxic to pets. Brake fluid also damages paint, so wipe and rinse spills promptly.
Can I repair this myself? (DIY vs. pro)
Start simple and safe. Identify the fluid and location, then match the fix to the severity. If control, braking or shifting is affected, call a tow. As you’re weighing options, use Jerry’s insights into parts and labor rates for a clearer decision. Safety: Work on a cool engine, park on level ground, use wheel chocks and wear eye protection.
DIY (easy, low risk)
- Slide clean cardboard under the car overnight to map the drip location and size. This helps pinpoint the source.
- Check fluid levels (coolant in reservoir only, not the radiator cap hot; PS and brake per cap). Low levels confirm an active leak.
- Wipe down wet areas with rags and a little degreaser. Clean surfaces make fresh leaks easier to trace.
- Dust suspect areas with talc/baby powder, or add UV dye and use a cheap UV light to spot fresh paths.
- Top off only with the exact spec fluid listed in your manual. Mixing types can damage seals and systems.
- Decision thresholds: if you need >8–12 oz ATF to restore engagement, tow; if heater blows cold at idle or temp rises, stop; don’t hold steering at full lock with low fluid.
- Minimal tools: nitrile gloves, eye protection, funnel, rags/degreaser, talc or brake cleaner, UV dye/light, basic OBD-II scanner (for P0700-family trans flags).
Pro (recommended)
- Pressure-test the cooling system to find small pink coolant leaks without guesswork.
- Inspect transmission pan, gasket, and cooler lines; dye/UV test for seep vs. stream leaks. Don’t over-tighten pan bolts; torque in a cross pattern to spec.
- Replace leaking hoses, clamps, pans, gaskets, and seals; then refill with the right fluids and bleed systems. Road test, heat-cycle and recheck.
- For slipping or front seal leaks, remove the transmission to replace pump/torque converter seals and verify converter bushing health.
- Address power steering leaks by replacing high-pressure hoses or the rack, then align and flush to protect the new parts.
- What to ask a shop: dye/UV confirmation and photos, exact source, labor hours, parts brand (OEM vs. equivalent), and warranty on parts/labor.
Special notes
- Some trucks/SUVs use ATF in the transfer case; a mid-vehicle red leak can be from there, not the transmission.
- Modern “sealed” transmissions still leak; they just lack a dipstick. Fluid level checks require specific procedures.
- Coolant color is not universal—use the exact type your automaker specifies to avoid sludge or corrosion.
- Vehicle patterns: Nissan (’05–’10) radiator cooler failures (“SMOD”); Honda PS pump inlet O-ring seep/whine; GM cooler lines rust at crimps; Toyota water pump weep-hole pink crust; VW/Audi plastic flanges/thermostat housings; Ford 6R80 plastic pan/filter module.
- EVs/hybrids often have multiple pink coolant loops; CVT fluids vary in color—follow exact procedures.
What not to do
- Don’t drive if the brake pedal feels soft or the transmission slips; tow the car.
- Don’t mix coolant or ATF types “just to get by.” Wrong chemistry can ruin seals.
- Don’t pour stop-leak into the transmission or cooling system; it can clog passages and radiators.
Prevention
Jerry customers are following a few simple habits to catch small leaks early and keep hoses and seals healthy. Build these into your normal maintenance routine.
Look under the car weekly; a postcard-sized spot that grows needs attention.
Inspect transmission cooler lines and clamps every oil change; replace at first sign of cracking or rust.
Service ATF and filter on schedule (commonly 30,000–60,000 miles; follow your manual). Fresh fluid protects seals.
Replace aging coolant every 5 years/100,000 miles (varies by type). Old coolant attacks rubber and metal.
Check power steering fluid monthly; a drop means a leak is starting.
If you tow or drive in heat, consider an auxiliary trans cooler to reduce pressure and hose stress.
Keep engine bay plastics and undertrays intact; they shield hoses and lines from debris.
Address coolant leaks right away. The aluminum engine blocks and heads are not nearly as forgiving to overheating as the cast iron ones were from back in the day.
Download the Jerry app to estimate repair costs, check recalls, and find trusted shops near you — so small drips don’t become big repairs.
What our customers are asking us
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Is red fluid always transmission fluid?
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Can I drive with a small red leak?
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How can I tell coolant from ATF on the ground?
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What does it cost to fix a red leak?
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Are there recalls or TSBs for leaks?
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Is pink water under my car normal?
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Do “sealed” transmissions still leak?
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Does weather affect leaks?
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.
