Based on that data, we’ve found that the average valve cover gasket replacement runs $150–$400 for most cars.
Simple four-cylinders often land at $100–$200, while V6/V8s, turbo models and luxury vehicles are commonly $250–$600. If the valve cover is cracked/warped or access requires intake removal, totals can reach $700+.
The gasket itself is usually $10–$60. Labor drives the cost—expect 1–3 hours depending on access and what must be removed.
Real customers Jerry has helped
Costs for getting your valve cover gasket repaired depend on your exact vehicle, where you live and the quality of oil used. With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need their valve cover gasket repaired.
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
Engine layout and access:
Inline-4s are ~1 hour. V6/V8s may have two covers (two gaskets) and tighter packaging—2–3 hours isn’t unusual; doing both banks adds parts/time, but saves a repeat visit.
Examples: Toyota/Lexus transverse V6 rear bank is under the cowl; Subaru flat-4 has tight side access.
When you book your repair appointment in the Jerry app, you can double check to make sure the technician has experience working with your vehicle.
What’s included in the job:
Some engines require removing intake components, ignition coils or fuel rails, adding 0.5–1.5 hours. Replacing spark plug tube seals while open raises parts cost slightly but avoids future labor.
Valve cover condition:
Warped/cracked covers or failed integrated PCV/vent systems require replacing the cover ($100–$400+).
*Common on BMW/MINI, VW/Audi, and some Hyundai/Kia.
Gasket type and brand:
Molded rubber is common; premium sets fit better and resist heat. Some engines need small dabs of RTV/FIPG at timing-cover seams—quality materials matter.
Labor rate and location:
Shop rates vary widely; the same job can swing $100+ on labor rate alone.
Oil cleanup and incidentals:
Budget $10–$50 for cleaners, shop supplies and any oil-soaked ignition components.
Doing one bank vs. both (V engines):
Many owners do both while in the shop to avoid duplicate visits; the second bank adds parts/time but can be cheaper than separate trips.
Pro tip: UV dye can help distinguish valve cover vs. timing cover/cam carrier seep. Pull coils to check for oil in plug tubes.
Typical items to expect:
What is a valve cover gasket?
The valve cover is the lid over the camshaft(s) and valvetrain and the gasket seals the cover to the cylinder head to keep oil in. Many engines use separate spark plug tube seals to keep oil out of plug wells. Heat cycles and oil exposure harden or shrink the gasket over time, leading to seepage or drips—often down the back of the engine or onto a hot exhaust, causing a burning smell/smoking.
Signs you need the valve cover gasket replaced
- Burning oil smell that’s strongest after a drive
- Wetness around the valve cover perimeter
- Misfires, rough idle or hard starts caused by oil in spark plug wells
- Low oil level between changes
- Visible smoke from the engine bay
Pro tip: Not sure it’s the gasket? A quick clean-drive-recheck, UV dye test or running a diagnostic in the Jerry app can confirm before authorizing repairs.
Your action plan: How to save money
Confirm the leak source:
Clean the area, drive 10–15 minutes and recheck seams/corners.
Combine complementary work:
If spark plugs, plug tube seals, coil boots or bolt grommets are due, bundle them now to avoid duplicate labor.
Choose quality parts:
Use a well-fitting gasket set and the correct RTV/FIPG only where specified to prevent repeat repairs.
Ask for a torque-by-spec install:
Valve cover fasteners are low torque—often 70–100 in-lb (inch-pounds). Shops should follow the factory sequence and specs to avoid leaks or stripped threads.
Verify PCV/vent health:
A restricted PCV elevates crankcase pressure and can force new gaskets to leak. Replace a weak valve/diaphragm or integrated PCV cover as needed.
Get multiple written quotes:
Request clear line items and labor hours while gathering quotes in the Jerry app. If you see 3–5 hours quoted for a simple I4 with clear access, ask to see the labor guide page.
Do a leak-free check before pickup:
Ask for a hot run and inspection at seam corners and plug wells, recheck after 2–3 heat cycles. Confirm parts/labor warranty.
Related repairs
Maintenance reminders in the Jerry app help remind customers that a valve cover gasket repair is often paired with:
- PCV components: A stuck PCV raises crankcase pressure and worsens leaks.
- Spark plugs/coil boots: Oil-soaked boots degrade; plugs due soon are easy while the cover is off.
- Spark plug tube seals: Replace alongside the gasket if applicable.
- Bolt grommets/seals and half-moon/cam plugs (application-dependent): Fresh hardware helps ensure even clamp load and leak-free corners.
- Valve cover replacement: Warped/cracked covers or failed integrated PCV assemblies may require replacement.
- Intake manifold gaskets (application-dependent): Replace if intake manifold must come off.
- Degreasing/cleanup: Cleaning residue protects rubber and simplifies future checks.
DIY vs. Pro: Can I do this myself?
If you’re handy, doing a DIY valve cover gasket on many I4 engines is a reasonable weekend job— but V engines and crowded bays are trickier.
We ended up replacing the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs, plus the client opted for a new set of ignition coils just in case. The car left with no burning smell and a fresh tune-up.
Ready to compare shops and lock in a fair price? Download the Jerry app to get fast, transparent quotes near you.
What customers are asking us
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Is it safe to drive with a valve cover gasket leak?
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Do I need to replace the valve cover, too?
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How long does the repair take?
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Should RTV sealant be used?
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Will stop-leak products fix it?
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Do I need an oil change afterward?
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How can I be sure the gasket is the culprit?
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When’s the best time to bundle spark plugs?
Jerel Lawrence is an experienced and certified automotive technician with a strong foundation in diagnostics, repair and technical mentorship. A graduate of NASCAR Technical Institute in 2010, Jerel began his career at national automotive repair chain locations, where he earned eight certifications from the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE).
From 2017 to 2022, he worked as a General Motors-certified technician at a Cadillac dealership, refining his skills in manufacturer-specific diagnostics and service procedures. Today, Jerel leads as the senior technician and mentor at a family-owned repair facility, where he helps guide the next generation of technicians while ensuring top-quality service.
In addition to hands-on work, Jerel contributes to the automotive community through writing detailed articles and answering technical questions to help vehicle owners better understand and care for their cars.
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
