How Much Does a Headlight Repair Cost?

Written by Jerry Editorial Staff and 2 others
Updated Nov 17, 2025

Having a headlight issue? We’ve helped 40,000 customers get their cars back in working order and have found that most car headlight repair costs range from $86 – $254. A basic halogen headlight bulb replacement costs $25–$100 per side, with HID/Xenon bulbs running from $150–$300 and LED modules from $200–$500+.

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Full headlight assemblies have price of $250–$750 each for mainstream cars and $800–$2,500 each for luxury/adaptive LED systems.

Headlight restoration cost (polishing hazy lenses) usually lands at $80–$150. If the issue is wiring (headlight wiring repair), fuses, a ballast (for HID) or moisture, expect diagnostics and parts to land between $150–$600.

Those ranges reflect typical U.S. shop rates and commonly used parts—your exact headlight replacement cost depends on the factors below.

Cost breakdown: Why the price varies

The final bill swings with parts, labor time and system complexity:

Part type and technology:
Halogen bulbs are cheap ($10–$30 parts); HID bulbs and LED modules are pricier ($50–$150 HID bulbs; $150–$400+ LED modules). Jumping from halogen to HID/LED can add $100–$400 to a bulb job.

Whole assembly vs. component:
Waterlogged or cracked housings often mean full assembly. Aftermarket assemblies for common vehicles: $150–$400; Original Equipment Manufacturer parts (OEM) add $100–$500+ per side. Adaptive LED assemblies can exceed $1,500 each.

Labor time and access:
Some cars take 10 minutes while others need bumper or wheel-liner removal (0.2 hour becomes 1.0–2.0 hours). At $100–$180 per hour, access alone can add $80–$250. Many VW/Audi and some Lexus/Toyota models require bumper removal for assemblies; trucks/SUVs may allow faster wheel-liner access.

Diagnostics and calibration:
Electrical faults take 0.5 – 1.5 hours to diagnose. HID ballasts/igniters add parts cost. Adaptive headlights or vehicles with front cameras may need aiming/calibration ($50–$300) and, on some BMW/Mercedes/Audi, coding after module replacement.

Quality and source of parts:
Aftermarket can save 20%–50% vs. OEM. Choose reputable brands (e.g., Philips/Osram for halogen/HID; DOT-compliant assemblies). Cheap clones risk poor beam patterns and condensation. Some modules need coding (0.3–0.7 hours).

Replace one vs. both sides:
Pairing bulbs keep brightness/color even.

What is a headlight?

A headlight is both the light source and the housing that shapes the beam so you can see—and be seen—at night. Depending on your vehicle, it may include:

  • Light source: Halogen bulb, HID/Xenon capsule (with ballast/igniter) or an LED module/board.
  • Optics: Reflectors or projectors that focus the beam.
  • Lens and housing: Clear cover and sealed body to keep moisture out and align components.
  • Controls and sensors: DRLs, auto on/off, auto-leveling, cornering or adaptive steering.

Modern units are often sealed, so if the lens cracks or an LED module fails, the most reliable fix is replacing the entire unit. Run a diagnostic check in the Jerry app to make sure before taking your car to a shop. 

Signs you need a headlight repair

One side out
Likely cause
Bulb or fuse
Quick check
Swap bulbs; check fuse/12V
Typical fix/cost
Bulb $25–$100; fuse less than $10
Both sides dim/yellow
Likely cause
Aged bulbs or hazed lens/low voltage
Quick check
Visual lens check; measure voltage
Typical fix/cost
Bulbs $50–$200 pair; restore $80–$150
HID/LED flicker
Likely cause
Bulb/module, ballast, poor ground
Quick check
Swap HID bulbs side-to-side; ground drop less than 0.2 V
Typical fix/cost
Bulb $150–$300; ballast $200–$600
Moisture/condensation
Likely cause
Seal/vent issue or crack
Quick check
Vent cap present; leak test
Typical fix/cost
Reseal less than $40 DIY; assembly $250–$2,500
Beam off/people flash you
Likely cause
Mis-aim
Quick check
25-ft wall aim check
Typical fix/cost
Aim $20–$60; often included
DRL/adaptive warning
Likely cause
Module/sensor/LED board
Quick check
Scan for codes; verify power/ground
Typical fix/cost
Diagnosis + part: $150–$600+

Your action plan: How to save money

Check simple stuff first:
Visually inspect bulbs, check the fuse, swap bulbs left/right if accessible and inspect/clean connectors and grounds. Do not handle headlight bulbs with bare hands.

Match the part:
Halogen, HID and LED aren’t interchangeable without retrofits. Bring your VIN, bulb itself or bulb number.

Moisture triage:
Ensure vent caps are present/clear. Minor mist that clears can be “within spec.” Intact older housings can be resealed with butyl rope, but cracked housings/electronics exposure → replace assembly.

Replace bulbs in pairs:
Keeps color/output even and avoids a second visit.

Compare quotes smartly:
Ask: “Is bumper removal required? How many hours?” “Will you aim the lights after?” “Do modules need coding—do you handle it?” Expect ~12-month labor warranty; parts vary.

Choose quality where it matters:
Stick to Philips/Osram for halogen/HID; DOT-compliant assemblies; match OEM-spec HID ballasts. Avoid no-name bulbs, they typically do not last long.

Bundle labor:
If the bumper is already coming off, replacing both bulbs makes sense.

Confirm aim:
After assembly replacement, aim to avoid glare and pass inspection. Quick home check: park 25 ft from a level wall; mark lens center height; low-beam cutoff ~2 in below center and horizontally centered.

Ready to compare prices without calls? Get local quotes in minutes with the Jerry app.

Jerry customers have learned that bundling these with your headlight repair can save a second trip:

  • Aim/adjustment after assembly or suspension work.
  • Lens restoration for older lenses.`
  • Fuse, relay or headlight switch replacement.
  • HID ballast/igniter when a new bulb won’t light.
  • Connector/ground repair for intermittent or dim lights.
  • Bumper or wheel-liner R&R for access (sometimes billed separately).
  • Alternator/battery testing if both headlights are dim.

DIY vs. Pro: Can I do this myself?

Bulb type (halogen)
DIY
Usually easy: basic tools, 10–30 minutes
Pro Shop
Minimal labor; helpful if access is tight
Bulb type (HID/LED module)
DIY
Moderate/advanced; mind high voltage and coding
Pro Shop
Safe, faster, proper handling/coding
Access/bumper removal
DIY
Time-consuming; clip risk
Pro Shop
Efficient; less trim damage risk
Electrical diagnostics
DIY
Needs multimeter/wiring know-how
Pro Shop
Faster pinpointing; less parts-guessing
Aiming/calibration
DIY
Simple wall aim possible
Pro Shop
Precise aim; ADAS calibration if needed
Cost trade-off
DIY
Save labor when access is simple
Pro Shop
Worth it when access/diagnosis is complex
Risk
DIY
Pinched seals, moisture, mis-aim
Pro Shop
Labor warranty; lower comeback risk

If you decide to go the DIY route, the expert mechanics at Jerry say to make sure to disconnect the battery and avoid probing live circuits.

SPENCER'S CORNER
I know better now, but early on in my car repair history, I may have touched a headlight bulb with my bare hands. As soon as the headlights turned on, I heard a small pop and the headlight went dark. Clear as day, a darkened fingerprint was on the broken pieces of the bulb. It had gotten so hot that the naturally occurring oil on my fingertips made the glass fail spectacularly. Wear gloves so that this doesn't happen to you.
Spencer Clayton
Spencer Clayton
Auto Mechanic and Contributing Author

What our customers are asking

  • Do I need to replace both headlights at the same time?
  • Is it illegal to drive with one headlight out?
  • Why did my new bulb burn out quickly?
  • Can I upgrade to LED?
  • How long does headlight replacement take?
  • Will insurance cover headlight repairs?
  • Do headlights need aiming after replacement?
Still have questions? Contact us
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Our experts
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Spencer Clayton

Spencer Clayton is a mechanic, writer and fabricator who has hands that know their way around engines and a passion for storytelling. He’s diagnosed complex faults, built high performance engines and custom fabricated everything from fine detail parts to entire chassis while sharing how things work and why they matter. His background in everything from dealership technician work to building high performance cars spans a large breadth of experience, and he is driven by a love of all things automotive and a desire to share knowledge.

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Everett Cook

Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.

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