Jerry has provided reliable repair price estimates to more than 40,000 customers across the U.S. and found the cost to replace a crankshaft position sensor is typically $143–$223 in straightforward cases, though difficult access can push totals higher.
The sensor itself is relatively inexpensive—labor is what moves the needle. In higher-rate metro areas or on engines with tight packaging, expect the top of the range (and occasionally $600–$800 if major components must come off).
Cost breakdown: Why the price varies
- Sensor location & accessibility is the biggest factor:
- Easy access (≈1.0–1.5 hr): Sensor bolts to the front/top of the block or timing cover; reachable with basic tools.
- Hard access (≈2.0–4.0+ hr): Tucked behind the harmonic balancer or at the transmission bellhousing (reading flywheel teeth). May require removing the balancer, splash shields, starter or other components.
- Layout patterns: On many FWD/transverse engines, the crankshaft position sensor sits at the bellhousing. On RWD/longitudinal, it’s often at the front timing cover or rear main area. Some boxers and tight German V-layouts are notorious for heat and access issues.
- Part quality: For a sensor this critical, stick to Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) or top-tier brands (Bosch, Denso, Hitachi, Delphi, Mopar, Motorcraft, ACDelco). Ultra-cheap sensors can experience a high failure rate, so it’s better to buy quality.
- Shop type and labor rate: Dealerships often charge more while independents vary. National labor rates commonly range $100–$200+ per hour.
- Relearn procedure: Some cars self-learn after several warm-up cycles. Others—especially many GM and Nissan models—require a crank variation relearn using a professional scan tool. That adds time and a small line item.
- Quick estimator you can use: (Flat-rate hours × local labor rate) + parts + diagnosis fee + relearn (if needed).
- Illustrative scenarios (national averages):
- Easy access: 1.0 hr × $150 + $90 part + $60 diag = ~$300.
- Hard access with relearn: 2.5 hr × $170 + $120 part + $120 diag + $60 relearn = ~$715.
See what a crankshaft position sensor replacement cost could look like for drivers like you. Here are some examples of costs for real cars and locations.
The repair explained: What is a crankshaft position sensor?
Think of the crankshaft position sensor as the engine’s master timing sensor. Its job is to monitor the exact rotational speed and position of the crankshaft—the component that translates the up-and-down motion of the pistons into the rotational force that drives your car.
The engine’s computer (ECU) relies on this signal for spark timing and fuel injection. Without an accurate crankshaft position signal, the ECU doesn’t know when to fire the spark plugs or inject fuel. In most cases, the engine won’t run if the sensor fails completely.
Many modern crankshaft position sensors are three-wire Hall-effect sensors (5-volt reference, ground, signal). Some are two-wire magnetic/VR sensors. The type determines how a technician tests the circuit and what failure patterns to expect.
Symptoms of a failing crankshaft position sensor
- Engine cranks without starting: The starter turns the engine, but it never catches and runs.
- Engine stalling—especially hot: Heat-soak can make a marginal sensor drop out; it may restart after cooling.
- Rough running and misfiring: Unstable idle, shaking and likely misfire codes.
- Poor acceleration: Hesitation and lack of power from incorrect timing.
- Check Engine Light: Crankshaft position sensor fault codes could be phantom codes. The Check Engine Light isn’t always on in a fresh no-start, but may come after the car is driven for awhile—you may have stored or pending faults instead.
Pro tip: A mechanic’s quick tell is a scan-tool RPM while cranking. If the ECU shows 0 RPM during crank, it isn’t seeing a crankshaft position sensor signal. That’s a strong crankshaft position sensor-circuit clue instead of, say, a fuel issue.
- Other clues: Oil in the connector, harness chafing on the subframe/exhaust or metallic debris stuck to a magnetic sensor tip.
Want help reading your codes? Download the Jerry app—our AI Diagnostic explains live-data clues (like RPM during crank), suggests likely root causes and shows typical repair outcomes based on millions of data points from real invoices.
Your action plan: How to get it done right
- Get a professional diagnosis: Crankshaft position sensor failure is common, but fuel and ignition issues can mimic it.
- Understand the location: Have the tech show you where the sensor sits on your engine. If it’s behind the balancer or at the bellhousing, expect higher labor costs.
- Discuss related parts: If access overlaps, ask about cam sensors, belts and the front crank seal. Bundling can save money.
- Clarify relearn: Ask: “Does my car need a crank variation relearn after replacement and is that on the estimate?”
- Verify workmanship: If the balancer is removed, confirm the bolt is replaced/torqued to spec and that the harness routing is tidy and heat-safe. Ask to see the old part to deter parts-swapping surprises.
- Get competing quotes: Prices vary with access and rate. Use the Jerry app to pull personalized estimates from vetted local shops, compare OEM vs. top-tier aftermarket parts options and book with transparent pricing.
There are dozens of fault codes, so be sure and get a good reference source for the codes, like a repair manual or a good source online. After you have the faulty system isolated, you can decide from there if it’s a home repair or one to hand over to a professional.
DIY vs. Pro: What to expect
| Factor | DIY (Easy Access Sensor) | Professional Service (Hard Access Sensor) |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | $26–$106 (part only) | $200–$500+ |
| Time | 1–2 hours | 2–4+ hours |
| Skill Level | Intermediate | Professional |
| Risk | Low–High (depends on access) | Low |
DIY pointers that techs actually use:
- Identify sensor type: Visually verify that the replacement sensor is the same as the existing one. Using a parts catalog, obtain the replacement sensor according to the year, model and engine in the vehicle being repaired.
- Access pitfalls: Sensors can seize in the bore. Don’t pry against aluminum covers—twist and pull, then lightly lube the O-ring on install. If a harmonic balancer must come off, you’ll need a balancer puller and the proper torque spec/bolt procedure on reassembly.
- Harness routing: Keep the lead away from exhaust and moving parts, then ensure the connector clicks and seals.
When access requires a balancer, starter, or subframe work—or when a relearn is required—save yourself the grief and book a pro.
Related repairs & inspections
- Camshaft position sensor(s): Same age/type and often similar failure rate, so consider if access overlaps.
- Timing belt/chain: If the crankshaft position sensor hides behind the timing cover, inspect the belt/chain and tensioners. If near the end of service life, replacing now avoids duplicated labor later.
- Serpentine/drive belts & front crank seal: If the balancer comes off, this is prime “while-you’re-there” work.
- Wiring/reluctor check: Look for oil-soaked or brittle harness sections and excessive metal on magnetic tips (which can hint at reluctor damage).
What our customers are asking
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Can I drive with a bad crankshaft sensor?
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What’s the difference between a crankshaft and camshaft sensor?
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Will a new sensor fix my “crank but no start” problem?
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Anything to expect after the repair?
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
