That price covers the sensor and the shop time to confirm the diagnosis and swap it. Luxury brands or vehicles that require the entire MAF housing (not just the insert) can push $500, while common models that accept an insert-only replacement sometimes come in under $200.
To get precise costs for your exact car and location, use the repair estimator tool in the Jerry app.
Real customers Jerry helped
Different variables–such as exact vehicle, location, or parts used–affect pricing details, but Jerry uses real customer experiences to show what drivers are paying right now. Here are some examples:
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
What does a mass airflow sensor do?
Think of the mass airflow sensor as your car’s lungs—it measures how much air enters the engine so the car’s computer (ECU) can mix the right amount of fuel. Most modern units are “hot-film” sensors: the ECU monitors the current required to keep the element hot as air flows past and converts that to airflow that the engine’s electronic control unit can use to supply the correct fuel/air ratio. Bad readings throw off the fuel mix, causing poor fuel economy, sluggish performance, rough idle, or even a no-start. Note: not every vehicle uses a MAF; some use a Manifold Absolute Pressure only “speed-density” system.
Symptoms of a failing mass airflow sensor
Jerry customers are finding that a failing mass airflow sensor may cause one or more of these symptoms:
- Rough engine idle.
- Hesitation on acceleration.
- The engine stalls intermittently.
- The engine starts with difficulty or won’t start at all.
- Check Engine Light is on.
Cost breakdown: why the price varies
Jerry customers experience price swings based on the following known factors:
Parts cost:
The sensor itself is the big swing in MAF sensor parts cost. New MAFs typically range from $100 to $236 depending on vehicle and whether you’re buying OEM or an OE-supplier equivalent (Bosch, Denso, Hitachi are common safe bets). Some cars allow you to replace just the sensor insert; others require replacing the entire housing with the screen/honeycomb—expect the latter to cost more.
Labor cost:
R&R (remove and replace) is quick on most cars, so MAF sensor labor cost is usually modest: book time is usually between 0.3 and 0.6 hours because it’s often two screws and one connector in an easy-to-reach spot. Diagnostics can take time, however: plan for between 0.5 and 1.0 hour of diagnostic time. At typical shop rates, that puts labor around $40 to $100 for R&R plus $50 to $180 for diagnostics.
Location:
Higher shop rates in big metro areas (think San Francisco or New York) inflate the labor portion; rural/suburban shops tend to be lower.
Diagnostics and cleaning:
Sometimes, the MAF doesn’t need replacement—it needs proper cleaning. A pro cleaning with MAF-specific cleaner can run from $50 to $100 (typical MAF sensor cleaning cost) and buy you thousands of miles of proper operation. Proper diagnostics can save time and money.
Vehicle make and model:
Vehicle design drives both part type and access, so MAF sensor cost by vehicle can differ widely. A Ford F-150 that accepts an insert can land around $200 installed, while a Mercedes C-Class that prefers an OEM housing plus big-city labor can push past $450.
Use the pricing tool in the Jerry app to compare quotes and find a shop that works for you.
Your action plan: how to save money
Ask if cleaning is an option.
If contamination is the issue, a mechanic can clean the sensor with MAF cleaner only (never brake/carb cleaner). Make two to three light passes with the cleaner, let it air-dry, and don’t touch the element.
Shop around for quotes.
Since labor for R&R is small, price differences often come from part choice and diagnostic time. Ask whether your car takes an insert or full housing, and whether the quote includes diagnostic confirmation.
Consider aftermarket parts—smartly.
Reputable OE-supplier brands often perform like OEM at a lower price. Be wary of ultra-cheap no-name sensors; inaccurate readings can cause new drivability issues.
Check your air filter and intake tract.
A dirty or collapsed filter and cracked intake boots/loose clamps can contaminate the MAF or introduce unmetered air. Replacing a $20 to $60 filter and reseating the airbox properly can prevent repeat failures.
Do a quick five-point triage.
Before authorizing a new MAF, ask the shop to:
Inspect intake bellows/hoses after the MAF for splits or loose clamps.
Check the connector for bent pins/corrosion and proper terminal tension.
Avoid/replace oiled performance filters that can coat the element.
Clean the throttle body if badly gunked up with hardened oil deposits and dirt.
In the Jerry app, see local MAF replacement medians and ranges by car, part type (insert vs housing), and shop—so you can spot an outlier before you book.
DIY vs pro: Can I do this myself?
Making the call between a DIY and pro approach is your decision. Jerry’s tools can help give more transparency on labor and part rates. Here’s a quick comparison.
Pro tip: You usually don’t need to disconnect the battery just to change the MAF, but if you do disconnect the battery—or your vehicle requires it—be prepared for an idle relearn: idle with accessories off for a few minutes, then A/C on, then a short steady-speed drive (from 40 to 55 mph), and recheck for a smooth idle.
Related repairs
When replacing a MAF sensor, Jerry customers see that mechanics often inspect or recommend:
- Air filter replacement ($73 to $142). A clogged or collapsed filter restricts airflow and can dirty the sensor; noisy intake or a filter that won’t seat squarely are clues.
- Throttle body cleaning ($50 to $150). Carbon buildup can cause unstable idle that looks like a MAF problem.
- Oxygen sensor replacement ($149 to $293). If trims stay off after a verified-good MAF and no intake leaks, downstream feedback sensors may be due.
- Spark plug replacement ($151 to $161). Misfires from worn plugs can mimic MAF issues; look for rough idle under load and misfire counters on a scan tool.
- PCV hoses and vacuum lines ($25 to $150 parts; labor varies). Whistling/hissing, high positive fuel trims, or oil in the intake can point to leaks that make the ECU chase its tail. These aren’t always necessary, but they’re commonly checked at the same time.
What our customers are asking
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How do I know my MAF sensor is bad?
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Can I drive with a bad MAF sensor?
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Will cleaning the sensor really fix it?
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Is it okay to buy a cheap aftermarket MAF sensor?
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How often should I replace my MAF sensor?
Steve Kaleff began working on cars at the very young age of nine years old, when his dad actually let him make fixes on the family car. Fast forward to the beginning of a professional career working at independent repair shops and then transitioning to new car dealerships. His experience was with Mercedes-Benz, where Steve was a technician for ten years, four of those years solving problems that no one could or wanted to fix. He moved up to shop foreman and then service manager for 15 years. There have been tremendous changes in automotive technology since Steve started his professional career, so here’s looking forward to an electric future!
Nick Wilson is an editor, writer, and instructor across various subjects. His past experience includes writing and editorial projects in technical, popular, and academic settings, and he has taught humanities courses to countless students in the college classroom. In his free time, he pursues academic research, works on his own writing projects, and enjoys the ordered chaos of life with his wife and kids.
