After helping 40,000 customers with research and repairs at Jerry, we’ve learned that power steering problems usually come from three places:
- Low fluid or leaks in hydraulic systems.
- Slipping or broken serpentine belt (squeal/noise from the belt).
- Electric power steering (EPS) fault (bad steering unit, weak battery or blown high-amp fuse).
Common signs include heavy steering, whining noises, fluid on the ground or a warning light. If driving has become unsafe because it takes more effort to turn—especially at low speeds—you need to have your power steering inspected ASAP.
Want to be sure? Join the 40,000 people who have used our AI diagnosis chatbot by downloading the Jerry app.
Real customers Jerry has helped
Costs for getting your power steering issues resolved depend on your exact vehicle, where you live and the quality of parts used. With Jerry, you can quickly see what drivers are paying right now. Below are real examples of customers we’ve helped secure top prices for when they need a fix for their power steering issues.
Estimates are modeled based on real vehicle and location data; names have been changed. Actual prices will vary by shop, parts, and vehicle condition.
At-a-glance: Can I keep driving?
Power steering faults range from annoying to dangerous. Use these categories to decide your next steps and avoid bigger damage.
- 🚨 Urgent—turn it off and get help (roadside assistance or tow)
- Total loss of assist or steering wheel binding while turning (control risk).
- Loud squeal, Battery Light on and very heavy steering (belt likely failing).
- Fluid pouring out or a rapid leak (pump can run dry and fail).
- Burning smell or smoke while turning (overheating pump/belt).
- Brake pedal suddenly hard along with heavy steering (hydroboost trucks).
- 🕒 Soon—OK to drive but fix this week
- Whining/groaning when you turn, but assist still works.
- Slight stiffness when cold that improves as you drive.
- Small leak or damp hose but no puddles yet.
- Car pulls or steering wheel off-center after a curb hit.
- ✅ Monitor—safe to drive
- Faint groan at full lock only (pressure relief valve opening).
- Minor seep with no drops on the driveway.
- Slight assist variation right after your car starts in very cold weather. Assist loss hits low speeds first, making parking and tight turns risky. Keep in mind that on many cars, the same belt powers the alternator and water pump, so a belt issue can quickly become an engine or battery problem.
Symptoms, likely causes and typical fixes
Download the Jerry app to compare local automotive repair quotes side-by-side in minutes.
Risks if you ignore it
Higher crash risk: Heavy steering reduces control in parking lots and during sudden maneuvers, putting you and other drivers into a dangerous situation.
Pump burnout: Running low on fluid overheats and destroys the pump.
Belt cascade: A failed belt can also stop the alternator and water pump, stranding you on the side of the road.
Rack damage: Leaks wash out lubrication and can ruin rack seals/gears.
Brake assist loss (hydroboost): Steering/pump failure can make the brake pedal hard.
Bigger bills: Small leaks/flushes are hundreds of dollars, but delays after pump or rack failure often lead to repairs costing thousands.
Can I repair this myself? (DIY vs. pro)
Safety first: Follow Jerry’s protocol for properly working on your car by parking on level ground, making sure the engine is off and cool, chocking wheels and wearing eye protection. If steering is very heavy or binding, don’t drive—get a tow.
DIY (easy, low risk)
- Check tire pressure and set to door-jamb PSI (low tires can mimic heavy steering).
- For hydraulic systems: Engine off. Check reservoir level and color; top up only with the exact fluid type.
- Basic bleed after a repair or low fluid: With the reservoir level full, start the engine for 2-3 seconds and shut off. Check reservoir again, top up and wait 5 minutes, repeat process 3-5 times as air is purged from the system.
- EHPS: Electrohydraulic systems have a pump that will activate when the key is turned on. Make sure the reservoir is full before powering up the car, 2-3 seconds then turn off and check the fluid level. Repeat.
- Leak hunt: Place cardboard under front overnight, then check rack boots for trapped fluid and note color/location.
- Track patterns: Is your power steering issue only when it’s cold? Or only at parking speeds? Any warning lights?
Pro (recommended)
- Inspect/replace serpentine belt & tensioner; verify pulleys spin freely and alignment is correct.
- Pressure-test hydraulic system, repair leaking hoses/clamps and refill & bleed to remove air.
- Replace noisy/weak pump and flush old fluid to protect new parts.
- EPS/EHPS diagnostics: Scan codes, check high-amp fuses/relays/grounds and battery/alternator health, then repair sensors/modules and perform calibrations.
- Replace leaking/worn rack-and-pinion; finish with a four-wheel alignment.
Special notes
- Hybrids/EVs: No fluid, but EPS diagnostics and calibrations are required after many repairs.
- EHPS: Electric-hydraulic pumps use high-amp fuses, low voltage can disable assist.
- Use only specified fluid (e.g., Honda PSF-S, Pentosin CHF-11S/202) — mixing can swell seals and kill the pump.
- After tie-rod or rack work, expect an alignment and possibly a steering angle sensor reset.
- Common saver: Honda pump inlet O-ring causes whine/air is a cheap fix; many Euro cars require CHF-only fluids.
Prevention
Check tire pressures monthly and before trips (door-jamb PSI).
Inspect serpentine belt yearly; replace around 60k–100k miles or if cracked/glazed.
If hydraulic, check fluid every 6 months/7,500 miles and flush if dark/burnt or per manual (often 60k–100k miles). You can use the Jerry app to track these flushes and make sure you’re staying on schedule.
Avoid holding full lock and use gentle, rolling parking maneuvers.
Test the battery yearly (EPS/EHPS are voltage-sensitive), especially before winter.
Get an alignment after curb hits or suspension work.
Keep the engine bay clean, as oil leaks can soften belts and hoses.
What not to do
- Don’t drive with a broken/slipping belt (risk overheating engine and draining battery).
- Don’t mix fluid types or use random “stop leak” products.
- Don’t hold the wheel at full lock for more than ~10 seconds (overheats system).
Naturally, the customer was convinced it had to be something the service technician did, but the pump just happened to fail while the tech was in possession of the vehicle.
A new pump was installed and the power steering fluid system was flushed of all the old, dirty fluid to be replaced with fresh fluid. This vehicle was serviced regularly by the customer and the old fluid was dirty, but not contaminated. It just happened to be the end of service life for the power steering pump. These things can just happen, as mechanical components are performing work and can fail at any time for any reason.
👉 Want quick repair estimates, recall checks or local shop quotes without phone calls? Download the Jerry app to get everything in minutes.
What our customers are asking us
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Is any noise “normal” when turning the wheel?
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Can I drive with no power steering?
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My steering is stiff only when cold. Is that a failure?
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Do electric power steering (EPS) cars have fluid?
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How much will this repair cost me?
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Could this be covered by a recall or TSB?
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Do I need an alignment after steering repairs?
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How can I safely test at home?
Jerel Lawrence is an experienced and certified automotive technician with a strong foundation in diagnostics, repair and technical mentorship. A graduate of NASCAR Technical Institute in 2010, Jerel began his career at national automotive repair chain locations, where he earned eight certifications from the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE).
From 2017 to 2022, he worked as a General Motors-certified technician at a Cadillac dealership, refining his skills in manufacturer-specific diagnostics and service procedures. Today, Jerel leads as the senior technician and mentor at a family-owned repair facility, where he helps guide the next generation of technicians while ensuring top-quality service.
In addition to hands-on work, Jerel contributes to the automotive community through writing detailed articles and answering technical questions to help vehicle owners better understand and care for their cars.
Everett Cook is an award-winning journalist and editor with more than 10 years of experience across a variety of industries. In editing for Jerry, Everett’s mission is to help readers have a better understanding of the costs of owning or leasing a car and to better understand their vehicle in terms of insurance and repairs. Prior to joining Jerry, Everett was an editor for Axios. His previous work has been featured in The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, The Atlantic, Atlantic Re:think, The Boston Globe, USA Today, and others. He’s also been a freelance writer and editor with experience in SEO, audience building, and long-term content roadmaps. Everett is a proud graduate of the University of Michigan.
